Modèle RC C-130 Hercules à l'échelle 1:32 pour l'impression en mode vase

Hi. No sorry I haven't made instructions other than the illustrations, photo and text info here on Cults. It's not a beginner model but once parts are printed and assembled it's' pretty obvious where things go.

ok thanks. great job on making it.

To print Fuselage01-full you need a slicer that lets you add top layers on the tip of the nose. If your slicer can't do that you need to print Fuselage01-split in vase mode and Nose01 in normal mode and glue them together after printing.

Yes it prints on any normal 200x200x200+ printer. I think two of those motors would be more than powerful enough but can't say if they will fit as I don't know them.

No infill unless it says so in the print rdescription under "3D printer file info" here on Cults3d.

Reicht ein 330*330*330 drucker

Ja

Hallo gibt es fûr das Flugzeug eine genaue bauanleitung

Only what you see here on Cults3D.

Hi. Look at the illustrations here. There are many that cover the difficult parts.

si las he mirado , en la imagen del rudder lo que marcas como ca hinges es mi duda , gracias por todo

CA hinges are flexible plastic hinges that bend. Google "ca hinge" to see examples. You can buy sheets that you cut hinges from.

Ok, thank you very much, I have seen the sheets on Aliexpress of 0.3mm,
Thank you very much and I continue printing

It's designed to fit together with the thickness of 1 wall only. 2 walls will be very heavy.

If you really want to use 2 walls you should use use a dferent slicer profile with 1 wall for the section with overlap.

Thank you for the fast reply. This is just gonna be a model for a co-worker who use to fly on the C130. So weight is not an issue, but fitment is 😅
I’ll attempt again in single wall pla

Non flying model

Hey with fuselage 4 why is one of the guides for the the control rods solid and the other is webbed or grid? It failed twice printing on both attempts.

It might be ing the gap because it's closer when it gets an angle while the ohter one is straighter. If your slicer is set up to gaps that are lesss than a certain amount it will make this mistake. I don't know which slicer you're using but I have seem this setting in Cura for example. I use Simplify 3D.

Don't what it's called.

I'm using BambuLab slicer.
I'd send you a photo but doesn't look like its possible on this platform, It's just really strange how one side compares to the other.

Hi. You can cut holes inside to fit bigger things. The thin walls are easy to cut. Use something hot to melt the edges where you cut to strengthen them.

The inner flaps have horns. It's the hole in the hinge plate. The outer flaps are pulled out by the inner flaps via a small rod in between them.

Check the thread for more info and for asking questions. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3233991-1-32-scale-Simple-Hercules-129-cm-wingspan/page23

ok thanks

High frequency antenne mounts. The C-130 har a HF antenna wire that goes from two points on top of the front fuselage to the top of the vertical stab. You can see it in many photos.

Two mounting screws is more than enough. Your motor has both 16 and 19 spacing so that it will fit planes with either.

What I printed was the LW-PLA version.

Nacelles should also be printed light like the other hollow structures. Same material.

Nacelle04-OtherMotors also uses LW--pla? I'm not sure! In my opinion, is the LW-pla material strong enough to install the motor?

My experience is that "Nacelle04-OtherMotors" gives significant amount of stringing, since it's not possible to print it in vase mode (at least not with my Bambu Studio slicer). I decided to print such part out of PolyAir filament (PLA based).

1 perimeter. These parts need to be as light as possible.

To me it looks like 5" in diameter, but I am not sure ;)

Oh, now I got it, props are also 3D printed :)

Short pieces of 4 mm dowel for alignment and then just glue on the ends. The 6 mm carbon tube provides strength. Check the bom.pdf for parts list.

I use simple bamboo rods to make dowels. you can use anything that's 4 mm in dimaeter that easy to cut to short 16 mm lengths.

I like to use 4-in-1 drone ESCs because they make for a clean install. I used a FlightOne Spark once. It has a BEC built in which most drone ESCs dont' have. It's discontinued.

You can use four of the same normal ESCs as well.

Hi. Can't you just drill a slightly larger hole?

Hi, the shaft in piece that the axle goes through is very close to the build plate, so drilling a larger hole would ruin it. That hole would need to be moved away from the edge to offset the increased diameter.

The other pieces are not a huge problem. I don’t think this website allows ing of pictures so I can show you. I will post a pic on RCGroups in this model thread.

CA hinges are from the store. There is no Nosewheel02.

ah! Perfect thx, I was referring to: TPU: Mainwheel01 and Nosewheel02 from the description.

One more if I may. would it possible to add Nav & Landing lights? I don't know if the wings in vase mode would allow it.

Ok I must have made an error in the description.

It's easy to drill holes in the plastic to route thin wires through. Use a small drill bit for the first hole and then stick piano wire in to drill holes farther in. 0,4 mm enameled wire would be enough to power small LEDs. Add 200 Ohm resistors in series and power from the BEC/receiver.

I had to translate your message.
There is no thickness to the walls. They end up as wide as the print width you choose. If you use 0,3 mm they end up 0,3 mm thick.

Thanks for the tip. Sorry about that.

IT's not critical. It'll end up light anyway. You can use two perimeters and 5 top and bottom layers with 05 infill.

Thanks,
for the ailerons control horns, how did you fix it to the ailerons?? Did you have a photo?
Thanks a lot
Bye
Matteo

The bottom layers form a bulkhead that adds strength.

Thanks for your reply.. i'll try to to print it instead of 2 solid bottom layer, with splitted settings for the first 2 layer using a lot of perimeter instead of only one..
I also make a mod for the wheels.. i have splitted the hub form tyre so i have printed hub with pla and tyre with tpu

Another Question, did you have some info for mounting the cargo door??

Just drill 1 mm holes in the dips after printing and stick a 1 mm carbon rod through the fuselage sides and door

Thanks a lot! The piano wire for the servo is attached to the other hole into the door or need to a hinge?
P.s. the stl for the 5mm 4 blade propeller have problem and need to be repaired before printing ;)

The hinge goes through the holes near the hatch surface and the servo rod goes to the hole in the triangular block. You can use either side. Whatever works best for you. I will a fixed version of the prop now.

I don't measure my dowels. Just cut them freehand and stick them in. You don't need a 2mm rod inside them to strengthen them. They are just for indexing. 18 mm long will work.

Sorry I was asking about for the wing/latch section

18 is fine for the rear locating dowel. 66 mm long for the front removeable dowel.

Thank you

The pitch is about 4,4"

Thank you. This helps drive the esc need!

Max 0,2 mm layer height and max 0,4 perimeter thickness.

What did you use on the LW-PLA`?

0,16 mm layers and 0,4 mm width with 50% flow rate and 247°C nozzle

Thank you. ill try that

Which flew best? the PLA or the LW-PLA?

I still haven't flown my new Hercules models. It hould fly like the old Hercules did as it's almost the same. LW-PLA should fly much better because it's so much lighter which really matters at this small size.

How would you print fuse 1 without simplyfied 3d functions of top layer in vase mode

Fuselage01-Split is for slicers without top layer function. Print Nose01 separately in non vase config and insert in the open end of Fuselage01-Split.

Fuse 6 does not want to be printet as vase mode. the lower part just get split up in random lines. It might be the Prusa slicer but had to use the same settings as I did with your old C-130

Just print it normally.