Masque Murder Drones (v2) avec mâchoire articulée

Hi! =)
Thank you for writing.
Please make sure that you print the glasses and the mask from the same archive (for example, regular goggles do not fit the "thin cheeks" version of the mask)
I am very sorry that you are having difficulties. Most likely, it is my fault, since the mask has grown from a simple one to 5+ full updates.
Please write to me what mask you printed (for example, UPD4) and what folder of glasses.

Thanks for ur reply!
It seems like i accidently used the 'thin cheeks' version. The googles are way to small for that version. My files got a little mixed up. So i printed the GogglesMesh0.stl with the 1Base.stl. I'll simply print the Base.stl seperately now. Thanks for ur help!

I am very happy that everything is fine =)
Please use files from the same folders or measure them in your slicer before printing. Sorry for the inconvenience.
If you have any problems, feel free to write to me. I will always help.

exuse me but how do you actually get the eyes to actually work

It all depends on your budget. For example, you can use LED glasses. Then, instead of goggles, you need to install a PET sheet (the template is in the archive) and add a tint film to it.
If your budget is limited, use LED flexible neon. It is inexpensive and allows you to get an excellent result in the dark.
There are more complex methods and the choice of a specific one depends on you.
Look in the "Make" section - some cosplayers have already tried the options I described.

Use the scale in your slicer to increase or decrease the size of the mask.
Maybe I misunderstood the question, then clarify what you mean.

I'm working on a big project, so give me some time. I will definitely help =)

ye thx, ill definetly give you time but im going to comic-con on saturday so please hurry

Done. Look for the archive "Special1-AxyArt.zip". I put the whole version and the one cut into 4 parts there. I hope this is what you need

that's awesome thank you so much fox :)

when you make his hair can you have his hat ,head eye light band thing and the back of his head in the same thing

I'm afraid that combining all these parts together will be inconvenient to print and even worse to wear. In the archive with this mask there is a base, jaw, goggles and a back cover. The headband is among my other designs. I recommend making the hair from a real wig, the same for the hat.

This helmet will be hard to put on. It will have a very small opening.
Maybe you should pay attention to this mask (v2) and the back cover. It is included in the UPD5.
What do you think about this?

so i did not take in consideration into the articulated jaw and its really whatever you recommend i also was wondering how to get the eyes to glow i was thinking a 15 dollar led because all the rest were 40 to 200 dollars but I wanted to know what tips you have

I can't tell you about electronics - how deep you go in cosplay depends only on you)))
I also thought about flexible neon. It will help to make a cross on the visor and it is easy to attach.
If you look at the makeup section of this mask, you can see that some cosplayers used a transparent visor together with glowing eyes.

also another thing I was wondering about the inside? is the inside comfortable to wear or am I going to have to put foam in the inside?

According to your taste.
I recommend placing the foam on the forehead and jaw of the mask where it meets your head. Or you can do without it.
The final decision is yours, whatever is more comfortable for you =)

On the mask with "thin cheeks" the distance between the lower edge of the visor and the teeth has been reduced. The rest remains the same.

1) You only need to print 3 files:
- Base
- Jaw
- Goggles (select the mesh type to your taste)
If you need a regular mask, I recommend using the files from the "MaskPartsHiResSTL.zip" archive - this is a high-poly mask with a nice smooth surface.
2) In total, 355 grams or 120 meters of filament will be used for printing. (printing on the "0.20mm SPEED" profile and "organic" s).
3) To configure PrusaSlicer, the "0.20mm SPEED" profile is enough (this is the standard "out of the box" profile for the "Original Prusa i3 MK3S" printer)
BUT! I highly recommend changing the settings:
Print settings tab:
material:
- type "organic"
Skirt and brim:
- brim width 4mm (make sure the model is flush with the table, you may need to "sink" the model by 0.2-0.4mm - in the lower right corner of the main window, decrease the position along the Z axis)
IMPORTANT
Make sure that in the "Printers" tab, in the "Extruder" section, the "Lift height" parameter (the "Lift travel" group) is greater than 0 (by default 0.4, without this lift the extruder can break the s)
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask. I will be happy to help! =)

Hi!
This is the first time I've heard of this 0_0
Let's figure it out?
When you put a model into a slicer, it converts it into GCODE (special commands almost like those of industrial machines).
At this point, printing does not depend on the model, but on the GCODE instructions. To make sure everything is OK, you can see how the layers are laid in the slicer (I check the models in PrusaSlicer and print in it).
Does your printer give any errors when doing this? Or does it just quietly stop printing? Does the model look full in the slicer after slicing? Are there any messages in the slicer?
Can the printer's internal memory run out? Does the problem persist if you print the models separately?

everything seems to be going well with the print and it silently just stops out of nowhere. the model looks completely fine in the slicer and prints correctly for the first few hours

It might have something to do with the internal memory. Maybe several models are too many for the printer and it is resetting the print due to memory overflow.
Try printing only one model at a time.
Will the problem persist?

I'll try to do something tomorrow
It's too late today
I'll write when it's ready =)

alright thanks fox :)

making that an actual update to the model is sick thanks :)

Is this bad? 0_0
You don't like it?
How can I improve it?

Hi! Thanks for writing!
Yes! I'll do it with pleasure =)
It's late night in my city now. I'll start work tomorrow and will try to be as soon as possible.
If it's convenient for you, you can use email. You can attach photos there directly.
Thanks again for writing to me.
Always yours, whitefox =)

thank you! take as much time as you need!

I updated the archive and added "UPD4-ThinCheeks.zip"
Re- the archive (no need to pay twice!)
I hope this is what you wanted. But if not - feel free to write to me.

If you want, write to me by email. You can attach pictures and files directly there. Better for blueprints

Its perfect! thank you :3

Unfortunately, due to the difficult situation, delivery is currently unavailable.
I am so sorry.
I hope the situation will change for the better soon.

Hello, Pacifico what country do you live in I might be able to send it as I have a printer!

You can use a bolt-nut connection (use smooth edges to face) (hole diameter 5mm).
The easiest way to connect the mask is to thread an elastic band through the hole (when the mask is assembled) and tie a knot around it.

Ty :3

The current mask size is "M" - it will fit size "S". You may need to glue in some foam rubber to make it comfortable to wear.
If you need a smaller size, scale the mask down (for size "S") to 0.99 or 0.98.

tysm!

The eye holes are empty (See pictures 6 and 13).
The kit includes an insert that allows you to glue a transparent PET sheet (you need experience and a heat gun) - this way you can hide your glasses and tint the visor (Picture 10).
Or you can print a mesh insert (also included, several options).
If there are any problems, email me.

tysm :)

Hi!
Thank you! I am very pleased =)
I made a version with separate teeth.
I hope you like it. Re- the archive and find "SeparateTeeth.zip" (no need to pay twice!).
If you need to add or change something - do not hesitate and write to me by email.
Happy cosplaying!
Always yours, whitefox =)

Thanks so much!!!

Hi! Thanks for writing! =)
If your build volume is 250 x 210 x 210 mm and your head size is "M", then yes.
To do this, turn the model on the table 45 degrees relative to the vertical axis.

thanks you so much!

Hi! This is a difficult question.
Can you write me an email? I will definitely help.
[email protected]

WOW!!! This is incredible! Phenomenal!
Great job!

Can I ask you to transfer these photos to Makes?
Find the appropriate button in the upper corner (there are also like, share and buttons).
Your work is amazing! Thank you and I wish you a great cosplay!

Unfortunately, I don't understand electronic components (((
But I have seen some cosplayers use LED wire (easy way) - you just need to attach it to the lining so that it follows the shape of the eyes.
More advanced cosplayers use programmable LED eyes (hard way). I couldn't find a seller, so most likely it's a custom device.
The choice is up to you, but - the easier it is for you, the better.
Good luck in your search and be careful with electricity =)

thank you

There are no instructions - you can use any method of fastening.
Here is an example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8osO75fL18
https://www.etsy.com/listing/697838540/vysokokaestvennye-remni-dla-hokkejnoj

How To Measure Head Size:
https://fashionablehats.com/pages/hat-sizing
https://www.size.ly/conversion-charts/hat-size-chart

Dimensions of the mask:
base - 8.43 x 5.10 x 7.26 inces
jaw - 8.45 x 4.56 x 4.12 inches
ed - 8.45 x 5.10 x 8.58 inces

If this is your first cosplay model, it may be difficult.

Hello!
No, you don't need to modify the file.
For a head of size "M" a printer bed of 220x220x220mm or more is enough.
In your case, you can make a mask for yourself too =)))

Hi. there. I printed the base and jaw and it looks awesome. Any suggestions on wearing it? Seems like I need to attach some straps to it so my kid can wear it comfortably. Any sugestions?

There are a lot of fasteners on Amazon today.
You can use a simple elastic band - then you need to choose the location of the holes yourself and drill them.
Or use clothespins and hide them under the wig.
You can also thread an elastic band through the hole in the jaw axis. This will protect it from falling out and additionally press the mask to the head.
I also recommend placing some elastic bands on top of the mask - this will protect it from sliding down.
Specific fasteners depend on your costume (wig, scarf, hat, etc.)

For example
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8osO75fL18
https://www.etsy.com/listing/697838540/vysokokaestvennye-remni-dla-hokkejnoj

what do you recommend

To your taste.
Whatever is simpler and more reliable.
I sent two links above, I hope it will suit you

There are two fasteners on the jaw that need to be inserted into the holes in the head. When connecting, you need to slightly squeeze the jaw and install the fasteners in their places.

Hi. The jaw seems to not have enough tension to fitthe base (too loose). I noticed a hole that i can perhaps put a rod in and secure it on both ends? Any suggestions?

You can use a bolt-nut mount (M5 would be great) or an elastic band.
Thread them through the holes and secure the jaw.

I'm very sorry, but even if I print it for you, I won't be able to send it =(((
Maybe among your friends there is someone who is engaged in 3D printing. Ask for help on Facebook

hey hey, update! i found someone who could print and ship it to me! does it come disassembled?

It depends on how you negotiate)))
The mask is assembled very simply - you just need to insert the axles into the holes

if i did purchase it, would i be able to get it 3d printed by a company that does 3d printing for a small fee?

Yes, of course. You can consider this comment my official permission.

But that you are only purchasing a digital file, not a physical product.
You need to find a company yourself and order printing from them for a small fee.

i’ll keep note of that! thank you ! :3

bought it! getting it printed and i’m very excited!

I'm worried too and I hope you'll like it =)

Please don't be shy and write if there are any problems

alright! i won’t hesitate to ask! thank you!

update number 2--I ended up deciding I'll print it myself when i get white filament because i got a printer for christmas! anything you recommend before i do?

Wow! Congratulations on your purchase! I wish you good printing and a happy new year))).
Recommendations:
- print with the back side to the table
- turn on the brim
- organic s (they are easier to remove than the mesh and are more economical)
- layer height of 0.2 mm is optimal, 0.1 mm for quality (but takes a long time to print)
- the best material price/quality is PLA
- speed depends on the printer, but within 60 - 100 mm/s for PLA, 40 - 80 mm/s for PETG
I also advise you to print a test version (reduce the scale by 2 times and see how it looks). If everything is fine, then you can safely print the full version (do not forget to optimize the mask scale to the size of your head)

alright, thank you! will i need to make everything--the mask, jaw, and back side all the same size?

Of course. Otherwise they won't fit together.

the printer i’m using is 220x220x220, i don’t know if that’s big enough to print it to where it will fit my head

The size of the mask (in original scale) should fit the head size "M"

For example Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo will be nice with 220x220x250mm print volume (head size “M”)

Thank you so much

Of course. Only the same scale guarantees you a reliable connection. In addition, the gaps are chosen specifically for printing the same size