Creality K1 MAX X-Axis Linear Rail Mod (LiDAR compatibile)

Hi, sorry for your inconvenience, I have checked and it is my fault this mod is not compatibile with CFS (I have added wrong info at 1.04.2025). Now description is corrected.
I can offer You a Full Linear please send me email at lashigt@gmail
All of customers that bought X Mod after 1.04.2025 up to today will get Full Mod on request via email.

or 8x8 / 6x6. The rail in the X axis of the K1 Max generates a 2nd peak around 120hz.

There’s no enough space, You can try to add L-shaped profile under the rail, using stock mounting points, and reinforce on stock holes in the rail. The graph shouldn’t have 2nd peak with the mod.

Hi, can You give me more details?

https://youtu.be/T2hawp_gn5o?si=Jy1IOEwkH14gSGfA

I made a short video of what is happening during the nozzle clean process

Ok, it looks that the carriage is coliding with a Z axis screw mount. Do You have any further mods with that area? Are You rooted? That might be some difference in firmware versions, and the software mods like KAMPS or adaptive purge lines can affect that.

To quickly solve the issue You need to modify the printer.cfg.
Please change following values in section as below and let me know, if it works:
[stepper_y]:
position_endstop: 300
position_max: 300
[prtouch_v2]
clr_noz_start_y: 297

Are You rooted?
Yes.

Do You have any further mods with that area?
Yes. I have the original. 42-60 XY motors but I changed the pulleys to 20t. I also do have KAMP installed.

Ok, can You send me your printer.cfg via e-mail lashigt@gmail
I’ll take a look for parameters connected to pulleys change. Meybe something is off.

Hi, I did not tested that, I have only a K1 Max, but I think the mounts should be fine just proper alignment of a rail to the mounting points are quite unknown.
About replacing gears to 20T the problem is, that the config file differs based on the versions of the printer. I had some questions before from other customers but related to changing steppers with LDO’s.
I’m glad You have sorted it out. How do You feel about the overall results of print quality?

So far so good. Still tuning different filaments. But as of now it's fantastic. VFA greatly reduced, perfect calibration cube, clean edges and crisp corners. It's also alot quieter.

Got rid of that dreaded ringing vibration noise that some k1s have. Quite happy with the result over standard hence why I want to do similar to the k1.

I will print in pla to mock up the X rail and modify the STL and see how we go. I'm sure the only thing that could be different is the brass heatsert location that holds the X rail to the Y carriage.

Exacly, the only difference might be in the heated insert location according to the rail.
But if i remmember correctly the spacing of the holes on the rail is about 20mm. So technically that should just fit without any further modifications.
Please let me know the results ;)

Hi, the washers are centering/aligning it well.
If not You can look for idler gear with 3mm inner hole but those are quite rare.

Hi, Im not planing to adopt it for wider belts.
In my opinion it’s a waste of money, there’s no need to change those. Belts are calculated for their max load and the movement of the printhead does not create big resistances.
Another thing is that the space in the blocks is very limited.

Okay, that's understandable. But I have another question. When I perform bed leveling, I noticed that my print bed is supposed to be curved upwards in the middle. In my case, during bed leveling, the print head is pushed up by the print bed while probing, and the rail bends slightly. Is that the case for you too, and is there a solution?

It is working exacly the same in stock configuration with rods. The probing sensitivity can be modified when rooted in printer.cfg but it should work just fine.

Well, then I'll have to search for the values ​​in the .cfg file and change them. In my case, it's definitely visible that when probing in the middle area, the rail bends slightly upwards from the pressure of the printbed. Before the mod, my bed was pretty much flat with just a slight bend in on corner.

In the K1s homing of Z axis and mesh calibration is made sensorless, with a detecting mechanical resistance method (i.e. the moment of of the nozzle with the table). When the Z axis faces the mechanical resistance then current on stepper drivers is increasing and that is interpreted as getting the touch.

The sensitivity of that detection can be tuned by changing parameters in printer.cfg:
1. Reducing the current of the Z axis stepper motor:
[tmc2209 stepper_z]
run_current: 0.8 - try 0.6 up to 0.8
notes: A lower current will reduce the force pressing the head against the table, which can prevent the guides from sagging.
2. Correction of PRTouch parameters:
[prtouch_v2]
tri_max_hold: 13000,60000 - try 11000,50000
notes: A lower value means that the system will recognize that it has touched the nozzle more quickly.
3. Changing the Z axis homing speed and force:
[stepper_z]
homing_speed: 10 - try 5
second_homing_speed: 1 - try 0.5
notes: Slower movement means less impact on the table and less risk of applying too much pressure.

TIP:
Correction of mesh levelling parameters, if You want more precise software corrections then try to play with fading parameters:
[bed_mesh]
fade_start: 2.0
notes: Change fade_start to 2.0 to make mesh compensation work closer to the surface
You can also set more points to measure (default is grid 6x6 points) to get more accurate bed mesh. That can be changed in:
[bed_mesh]
probe_count: 6,6

When You will run some tests be prepared for instant turn off (via back switch) - just in case.
I also recommend to read Klipper documentation.

I thought the bed leveling worked with the load cells on which the print bed is mounted?

Hi,
The main problem is that I don’t have the K1C machine, I need some photos of the stepper mounts to compare, and dimension of width between X axis blocks. Then I need to sort out if the position of inserts on the modded blocks is correct according to linear rail (I assume that rail would have 300mm).

Oh, alright, I’ll send you photos of the motor mounts as well as the length of the X-axis. I also have a 320mm rail that I had ordered for another mod, but unfortunately, that one isn’t compatible with the CFS.

Here are several photos I took for you. I hope they’ll be suitable, but if not, feel free to let me know, and I’ll take them again. Regarding the dimensions, I left the measuring tape visible, and the measurements are in centimeters: 4.7 cm and 2.2 cm. For the X-axis, the distance between the two rods is 31.5 cm, measured from the inner edge to the inner edge, not from the center of the rods.

https://ibb.co/bR74FYf
https://ibb.co/6mBNMfF
https://ibb.co/4P8r9Dd
https://ibb.co/3sX4NVr
https://ibb.co/LYxYv3k
https://ibb.co/F32YV9n
https://ibb.co/NmCX3q0
https://ibb.co/MpPSdzP
https://ibb.co/LY1Qm9K
https://ibb.co/4ZqN8Wg
https://ibb.co/3RxrQ77

Hi, thank You for the photos, currently I’m quite busy but I’ll try to analyse those as soon as possible.

Oh great, thank you very much!

Can You measure the distance between left and right X blocks?
I mean the lenght of the X-Rods?

Alright, I’ll do that for you within 45 minutes.

No worries, I’ll still need to assembly 3D model to if the position of inserts used to attach the rails will not have to be adjusted. The stepper mounts looks similar to stock ones and that’s the good news. I’ll in spare time.

Oh great! I’ve tried watching several videos, and I don’t see much difference with the K1 MAX. I also saw a mod that seemed compatible with both the K1 MAX and the K1.

And here are the photos. Between the two, I’d say I have 283mm.

https://ibb.co/cTpJcdH
https://ibb.co/dbTgdTd

Hi there, I am planning to install this mod on my K1C as well. I took another similar mods compatible with K1/C for comparison and indeed they have different positions of heat inserts and Length of rail slot. I modified the Lashights STLs even repaired some errors. I think I am ready to print it. Not sure how share those 3Ds due to licencing.

Hi, You just simply cannot share it anywhere due to licensing.
Of course You can use it for yourself. Other actions like sharing or posting remixes are prohibited in Cults and conditions.

Hi, this mod is compatible with 20T gears (20 teeth’s). The shaft in stepper is typically 5mm in diameter

You misunderstood me ;-). Creality steppers have a longer shaft than LDO motors. Can I still use LDO motors?

https://www.pic-.de/view-37459144/LDO.jpg.html

I would not recommend that, the belt tension will be making the gantry wobbly without 2nd point of fulcrum. You can also buy LDO’s with longer shafts. I have those with 46mm shafts.
https://www.filastruder.com/products/ldo-stepper-motors-nema-17?variant=39923122339911

Unfortunately the motors with long shafts are sold out :-(, can I also use the original holder from the Github page? I actually only need the print head to which you can reattach the Lidas.

The carriage in the mod is optimized for linear rail trolley. It’s different than stock one.

I meant whether the print head file is compatible with the Bootycall Jones Linear Rail Gantry mod ;-)

I have compared the photos, there’s some minor changes, for example the lidar mount, and pins to attach the stepper motor cover.
The rest looks similar. So probably it will fit.

rewrite right: in the stl drawing you made the 3 mm holes and put the 3 mm nut and the 3 mm screw. When assembling the hotend holder piece, the PDF contains no indications on where to place the M3x06mm Washers,

Washers are only used with idler pulleys and bearings, it is shown on the drawings and in the animation. Basically every pulley needs a washer on top and bottom. The carriage is almost the same like stock one and needs to be assembly in the same way. Only difference is that You need to attach MGN Block with 4 screws.
I hope it clarifies Your concerns.

thanks,A photo of the inserted nuts would have been helpful, so I kept all the tools out and did the job of inserting the nuts only once. now I have to disassemble the print head and take the soldering iron again. Okay, it's okay, thanks again

Hi,
Sorry but I don’t share the STEPs.
You still can modify the STLs with some apps.

Hi the issue which you are describing should not take a place. Please check if your belt adjustment is not making a XY skewed.
When homing both left and right blocks should touch the „limmiters” in the front of the machine. The mod was specially designer to avoid changes in printer.cfg

I do not have a K1 or K1C, so I cannot confirm if my design will fit for those.

Can i help you with this project?
I have some skills in Fusion360 and i have all 3 current models of Creality K1 Max, K1 and K1C so can test modified parts on them, and waiting for realease K2 Plus.
For now upgrading K1 Max is critical for me, but i understand that some kind of this upgrade i might be make in future with K1 and K1C

I think the left and right black would be ok, but printhead carriage is not a good idea due to a high temperatures from nozzle.

I originally printed this in PETG. the print head didn't last a week until it pulled apart at the belt straps from heat stress. the side blocks did last awhile but have loosened up from so many heat cycles. definitely wouldn't recommend doing this in petg if you print any other material other than pla.

Hi, that is why I have recommended high temp materials such as ABS, ASA, or NYLON.

Hi, if I correctly, the best solution is to print it on a side with a s on bed only

You should be fine, I made some tests with lower infill percentage, and it was fine. 100% is more due to a need of putting the inserts.
How many walls did you have set with 70%?

Hi, I do not have K1C so I cannot confirm.
I don’t think that Creality made a complex redesign with K1Max. Can You send me a photos of Yaxis mounts and stepper mounts that I can ?

Hi the tool head mount is very similar to the stock one, so basically You need to put the insert just like in the stock one.

You can me with button on my profile. Messages are filtered automatically by the portal, that is why it needs to wait a while to be authorised. I do not need to make any approval. I have sent You a same type of messenge with links to photos. Did You get it?

Hi LashiGT thanks for the reply, yes I got it and I replied to it hoping that you would see it but I see it also says that it’s pending approval. Please wait.

The original message I sent you to your profile is pending approval for 40+ hours now.
Does it usually take days to approve?

Weird that comments on the project are instant but messages need approval.
Sorry I’m new to this website so maybe that’s normal.

Hi LashiGT, are you seeing my messages? I’ve sent you one and also replied to the one you sent me.

Also, along with the question in those messages, do you have any instructions, videos, or photos for printhead assembly?

Hi, no worries for me English is also 2nd language. About Your questions, I do not have the resonances graph before the upgrade, but in a spare time I can get the graphs after the mod. The belt can move up and down and it shouldn’t have a big impact on the print quality, but the the plausible reason of it can also be the tensioners. When those are not lined up to gears axis then the belt will move up and down, so I recommend to check it, main was terrible from the factory. And last thing is the idler pulley in the x axis mounts (blocks). Creality uses there pulleys instead of toothed puleys (idler gears), but it is working with the toothed side/surface of the belts. This may lead to creating a small vibrations during the movement and can be the reason why the belt wears faster due to friction, that is why it is worth to replace it with idler gears 20T. Can You send me a link to Your resonances graph and table of records in .csv from your printer as stock?

i see what you are saying. The current smooth pulley seems to squash the teach on the belt where the toothed ones wont and in theory should give a bit more stability. i have ordered them. There is also a design on one of the 3d stl sites that allows you to upgrade the way you adjust the belt tension on these machines and if I have the gantry off, then i might as well do that at the same time to help with alignment.

would you care to share the details of the belt tension upgrade please?

Yes, its one i found on printables called K1 XY Belt tension upgrade. The benefit seems to be super easy belt tensioning and better alignment.

Hi, this mod is exacly for newer model with unicorn nozzle and 20T gears.

Sorry, another question, you mention precision/fitting class Z1. Z1 is preload but what fitting class is required? is C ok?

Hi,
I have used low cost rail with carriage in class Z1 that’s it (in case of deleting vibrations).
About previous questions, main problem of this machine are vfa’s from x axis caused by their innovative graphite bearings with big tolerances and springs that should adjust the gaps. That’s why x axis mod is so important, and from economic perspective it’s great deal to improve overall print quality.
Now I’m slowly working on a concept of full linear rail mod, but due to lack of time I cannot say when it will be finished (that process requires a cycle of prototyping and running some tests).
The full linear rail mod will increase print quality a bit more, but in is economy it would be quite expensive (need to buy 3 rails instead of one). I will definitely release full linear mod but idk when exactly. I’m planing to make it compatible with x axis mod, so s who have made my x axis would be able to upgrade.
About rails and carriages, it is kind of a lottery. But hwinn cost 4x more than any no name, so it is worth to try buying alternatives.

Hi,
There is no space to use 5mm bolts, that it why the design is using washers. If You keep stock steppers, theres no need to change anything in printer.cfg

Hi, You can keep stock motors but need to change to 20T. In that case You will need to change printer.cfg to match steps with a distances.

Bonjour,es-ce besoin d'avoir a modifier le cfg vue que je garde les moteurs d'origine mes je change les poulie en 20dents merci de votre réponse

Hi, if You had more than 20T in stock then You will need to change printer.cfg according to the new value.
So if You had 50T and You want to change to 20T there will be different value of steps/mm.

More info can be found here:
https://www.klipper3d.org/Rotation_Distance.html

si il faut modifier le CFG avec moteur d'origine et poulie 20dents pouvais vous svp aussi me dire les changement a faire,merci beaucoup

Hi I cannot , I have a k1max, but it is plausible that it will fit

immaginavo fosse cosi' ma sicuramente va cambiata la lunghezza della guida lineare asse X

Yes You’re right, rail is specific to machine dimensions.

Hi,
To be honest the mod alone is massive improvement, replacing to LDO’s is making it a bit better, but if i would rate it in of money/quality, improvement is quite small for the amount of money that You need to spend on those.
The best option is to assemble it with stock steppers run some tests and decide is that enough for your needs.
In case of LDO’s model choice, I recomend to buy 0,9deg. Those are stronger (higher torque), and a bit more precise but can sound a bit louder on high speeds the noise is in higher frequencies so it makes a squeaky effects.

Thank you for your answer, i think i will take your advise and build it with stock stepper motors first and go from there

Best approach;)

Hi, its 20T

Hi,
This is a economy grade PLA which cost around 45PLN = 11,50 USD, Company name is PlastSpaw. I think that You wont be able to get it outside of Poland.

Hi, sorry for late reply but i didnt used it with dirfferent designs.