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116 commentaires

Hello! Found your "Winter Soldier Arm Simple Straight Lined Version" on CGTrader but don't see it here on Cults. Was hoping to add it to a bulk order I'm putting together. Is it available on Cults or do I have to sign up with CGTrader too? Thanks for any response!

You don't have an exact indication of what scale the model can be printed. Will Sputnik-1 be made in 1/8 scale?

I like the Luna 9 probe lander. Have you thought about making the rest of the probe body/bus?

Hi there,

I came across your amazing Kill la Kill Junketsu Shoulder model on Cults3D (https://cults3d.emulatorsite.com/en/3d-model/fashion/kill-la-kill-junketsu-shoulder-printable-assembly), and I'm really impressed with the design!

I’m planning to 3D print and use it for a cosplay, and I was wondering—how is the piece intended to be attached to the shoulder? Are there recommended methods, such as straps, magnets, or a harness system?

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for sharing your work!

Best regards,

there are hoops built into the model so you can run strings through it and attach it to a harness system, ideally connecting both sides and holding them down on the shoulder
also, I'd recommend printing hte bottom part with greater infill to keep the center of mass relatively low

is the 3d print files for the Aliens Spacesuit wearable for cosplay? also do you have a promo or discount if i purchase all of the aliens space suit files from you?

they're designed to be human scale, originally made for a cosplayer
cults unfortunately doesn't really have a functionality to make discounted bundles automatically but I can usually offer large sets for one character/franchise for something like 30% off

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please sent me invoice for the set if you can and I will purchase. also, is everything split up or do you have option for large print area. I use a anycubic Kobra Max 400x400x450 for my 3d printing

specifically looking for the space suit pieces

that size should work but only the helmet really comes presplit to make it easier to insert a visor
can't really link to other pages here but I do offer a collection elsewhere or if you buy one and mail me at [email protected] I can set some discount codes for the others

Hi! I'm a cosplayer and I'd like to buy a "Murder Drones Worker Helmet" from you. But I'm not sure if my 3d printer (LEGO NEPTUNE 4) will be able to print it. It prints 225 x 225 x 265 mm. Can you tell me if it will be possible to print it?

at original scale it should fit but you may want to sacle it to fit you so really its about wether your head would fit inside the print volume
though yo ucan always turn it upright and cut it off from the bottom to print in halves

Hey I came across your rory axe and wanted to ask what printer size the pieces fit on.

largest dimension is 350mm but if you rotate it it should fit a 300x300mm printer, if you scale it down or split it further it could work on a smaller one too

Hello! Are you planning on making any models of Suika's helmet from Dr Stone? Specifically looking for the timeskip design (half watermelon). I'm willing to get it commissioned

sounds interesting but I'm only watching the anime myself so I don't really know anything thats only in the manga so far - are there any images I could work off without spoiling myself too hard?

I just came across your designs and you're very talented. I'm always on the lookout for designers to do simple aircraft CAD work for model projects. If you're interested, please me at [email protected]

Hola, en qué escala está diseñado y qué formato?

Hello ! I would like to print the shinon weapon, do you know how much filament I'll need ?
Thank you !

Hello, when I ed the Crucifix model from the Murder Drones thing, it shows that the model is the size of hundreds of feet, how would I resize it so it is a proper size so a USB stick could be put in the slot of the model? Or at least what should the x, y, z Values so that it is the correct sizing.

it might help to know I was using the STL file

what units did you import it as?
it's about 330mm long but stl files don't really contain units so its just 330 of whatever unit you import it as long

oh, I should have known that, I am farely new to blender and teh whole 3d stuff as usually I have other people do it for me. How would I change the measurements and such to millimeters so I can then import the model?

not sure how it works in blender, in most slicers you can just tell what unit to import it as, if it gets imported insome other unit you can measure how big it is and the ncalcualte the factor to scale it down in

thank you for helping me out, I will come back here if I need further assistance

Hallo, ihre Datei entspricht überhaupt nicht wie angegeben.
Laut ihrem angaben ist das Modell in mehrere teile unterteilt um es herstellen zu können. Dies ist aber überhaupt nicht der fall. sie haben einfach das Modell mehrfach in komplett in den Ordner gepackt und mehrfach in zwei teilen getrennt (Front und Heck) aber so kann man es kaum herstellen, geschweige den lackieren.

Was soll ich damit anfangen?

Mit freundlichen Grüßen
Nadine

Ihre Angabe:
Dies umfasst ein vollständiges Modell in Standard- und gedrehter Position sowie ein Modell, das in Teile zerlegt ist, die zusammengefügt und gedreht werden können.

es ist in genau zwei Teile getrennt, was eine Herstellung fast unmöglich macht.

zwei teile die man zusammmenstecken und drehen kann, man sieht relativ genau wie das aussieht
den hinterteil kann man im slicer in den boden senken und in zwei hälften drucken aber den vorderteil ohne stützstruktur druckbar zu machen ist quasi geometrisch unmöglich
dafür wird man eben stützstruktur nutzen müssen, je nach drucker und einstellungen kann man das je nach oreintierung versuchen zu minimieren aber ganz ohne wird es nicht gehen, von vorne in den boden gesunken lässt sich das aber hauptsächlich auf die seitenarme beschränken

Aber davon wird nichts erwähnt vorher. Dies ist aber genau ein wichtiges Kriterium was man vorher wissen sollte und nirgends bei ihnen steht. Sie packen einfach mehrfach und unnötig die gleiche Datei in einen Ordner und beschreiben es aber als Modell in mehreren teilen. Dies ist nicht in Ordnung ich möchte gerne mein Geld zurück, oder die Datei von ihnen so, das es möglich ist sie herzustellen. Vielen Dank

es gibt 159 vorschaubilder, eine inhaltsliste und eine rotierbare gifvorschau von jeder datei aber gut
in zukunft würde ich empfehlen mir dinge anzusehen bevor ich mich beschwere dass sie das sind was zu sehen ist, nicht jeder wird oder muss da so zuvorkommend sein

ich habe mir die ersten Bilder angeschaut und weil sie sich permanent wiederholten, habe ich in ihre Beschreibung geschaut und da steht: Dies umfasst ein vollständiges Modell in Standard- und gedrehter Position sowie ein Modell, das in Teile zerlegt ist, die zusammengefügt und gedreht werden können.

Daraus schliesse ich, das ich ein Modell erhalte, das ich drucken kann ohne große Experimente und irgendwelchen versuchen!

Ich danke für ihr entgegenkommen und Erstattung des Einkaufes, aber empfehle auch ihnen weniger gleiche fotos zu machen und davon über einhundert und vielleicht auch expliziter erwähnen, das es ein Modell ist, das nur in zwei teile aufgeteilt wird und schwer zu drucken ist.

Ihr Modell selbst ist detailreich, bringt aber einem wenig so wie es aktuell angeboten wird.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen

hello, can you make the top flare hollow from the inside? because when i want to print the whole thing in one piece , the flare top is like filled from the inside with bolts shaped like!?

can you fix that please, i want to make my own cut which i want to cut it into two large pieces , and i need the top one to be hollow from inside so i can insert a led light or smoke or anything i want

added a hollow but not split version

so there is no way i can make it hollow for the full version ?

that is the full version but hollow

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Quick question for you -- can you create bas-reliefs in formats that load up properly in CAD software?
I am using CREO, but I guess I could import any file for SolidWORKS / CATIA / AutoCAD if it makes it easier.

I have imported some STL and OBJ files in CREO and they look awful!
I have no idea why they look so grainy, probably because all those little triangles are not really smoothed out in a proper curved surface (or at least that is how it looks at my end, and I could not find any way to make Creo extract more quality from those STL/OBJ files).

If wondering why I would need to do such a thing, this is for higher-end furniture.
Imagine a bas-relief that you cut in three horizontal stripes and use those as front-ends for three drawers stacked one on top of the other in a dresser.
When the drawers are not in use, they show the whole bas-relief in all its splendor.

Or you cut the bas-relief in two and use the resulting s for the two doors of a cabinet.
But in order to design the furniture, you need the bas-relief as a part inside the CAD software, hence my question for you.

Thank you,
Colin.

importing stl fiels into cad is always a bit tricky, dependson the quality and properties of the mesh and only really works smoothly for very simple shapes, for things like scanned reliefs I would probably try recreating them in CAD based on an imported reference or try to find a specialized converting software or if you want to cut them into parts do that in some other software
for excahnging geometry between cad softwares things like STEP or IGES files are a lot more direct and keep up the defined geometries of a cad file instead of creating a triangle surface

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Thank you, will try to follow your advice!

Hello, I have a question about the product 106113439, are there any assembly instructions?

Kind regards
Eva

Are you going to make the complete Gutterman costume? (yes, including the shield) because if so, believe me, I will buy all the models from you (eventually), I will be very grateful if you do.

I was planning to make the shield too, not sure about smaller parts, shoulder plates might make sense too but a lto of finer parts are probably easier to make out of foam and fit personally
I'd also generally recommend using lightweight foaming filament and low infill cause these get pretty hefty

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I THANK YOU VERY MUCH, YEPPIEEEEE

Hi, I had noticed somebody had made a modded version of the Uzi Railgun file that you had made and was wondering if you could make those mods to an official file. They had made its so they could insert LEDs into it for the classic glow effect, and they had also made a working trigger. I'd hope to see this one day, but I understand if not.

I can try adding that but with something like that its difficult to make sure it works with different printers and electronics parts while keeping it strong enough for its size so I can't guarantee a version like that would work easily for everyone

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Hello! Would you be able to make a Evangelion shoe sole model for rubber casting? Specifically inspired by these shoes which are no longer sold https://www.hellocosplay.com/neon-genesis-evangelion-cosplay-asuka-langley-soryu-pilot-shoes.html ?
Myself and a lot of latex Evangelion cosplayers can never find any perfect shoes to match out cosplays and our only option is making them ourselves by casting rubber </3 if you’re able to make this happen I’d be more than willing to pay for your time and give permission for you to sell the models to others on here! Thank you!

sure, I could also just add a printable mold if that helps
though I'm not sure how soft the rubber you usually use is and what kind of mold it would need
only casting I know well is with relatively hard plastic which makes overhangs difficult and hte soles seem to wrap around the front somewhat but if hte rubber is soft it might be able to come out in one part if that part isn't too thick
you can e-mail me and I can make a basic first design but we may have to go through a few revisions as shoe soles do need to be somewhat functional and I don't really have any experience making them work, I don't really know what kind of thickness they need or how well the rubber you'd use can get out of a mold

would it be easier to add the part that wraps around the top of the shoe somewhat separately or maek that part of hte same mold and having the rubber bend when removing it?

Thank you! I was imagining a whole piece ^^ I have some rubber molded Eva shoes I can send measurements and stuff as reference by another maker but I’ll need to do some research more into the casting method and stuff first. I shall be in touch when I have a plan 😋

Hi, with Sinon's hecate II model you designed, what size rods would I have to use for it?

at full scale 3 4x690mm and 3 4x820mm ones but they can be a bit shorter and still work fine

you'll have to ask tech about that, might just be slow server too

Hello there!
I would like to ask about your murder drones core modell. Is it possible to het a version of it without the legs attached to the body?
Im not familiar with 3d modelling,and i dont want to modify your work, but I would need one without them.

Thank you for the answer in advance!

Hi mate, would u ever do an accurate bouncer helmet to print?
cheers

Hello! This is about the murder drones hand file of yours!

I'm trying to scale the model to fit my hand better and trying to scale each finger to fit better, unfortunately the model is a single entity STL file. I tried splitting the model into objects but the fingers keep the assembly original coordinate system for XYZ and its not allowing me to adjust the Z of each individual finger. When i try to adjust for Z of each finger link it scaled diagonally and not from a fix plane. Any suggestions on how I can fix that?

there's a full file and individual files for each part you can separately

Hello!! What are the dimensions for Crescent Rose and Ember Celica parts? Am I able to print them using a A1 Mini (180³) at full scale??

not withou cutting them down further, though most slicers can kindof cut parts at least in two again

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