33 commentaires

Doing some restructuring - might not be until a few weeks.

1:200, as in the size of the files have the model at about 33 inches and the real one is 576 ft. On the model I made I increased the scale to 125%, so the finished model is about 42 inches, so about 1:150 at this scale size.

Hi - Many of the hulls will require a bit of sanding to knock down some of the sharp points, but all detailed areas should be coming out super clean. Which model is it? I will take a look at it.

I'm sorry that I couldn't answer for a long time. The HMS Hood model. The fact that the model needs to be sanded is understandable, but all the printing elements come out with kinks and large irregularities on the model. And it is impossible to accept this into work.

Wow, so odd... please send some pics to me at [email protected] so I can see if maybe the file is corrupt or something.

Great!!! Would love to see a make when all printed. There are a number of forums to help and choices on RC gear. One aspect of a big warship is you are not making a speedboat, so small motors work great. You can go online to amazon and get a cheap RC boat and cannibalize, or get a simple 2-channel radio and you just need one servo for steering and an ESC to control the motors forward and reverse. I always just power the two inside props and the two outside are static. I simple prop/shaft config is to get your steel rod and insert into a brass or aluminum tube full of grease (or vaseline) and the threaded end gets your prop attached and have a collar to fasten onto your motor. I make a simple motor mount from thin plywood to epoxy in place to hold the motors with all of the gear and battery in a tub to keep it from getting wet. Good luck!!

OK, I see... Let me rework, but will probably not be until Monday.

OK - redid the front - might need a bit of sanding, but should be good.

Use 3D Builder, which is free from Microsoft or already on your computer. Use the 'Split' function on the edit tab and it is super quick and easy. Once you split the pieces into the sizes you want, just save each piece as a separate stl file. I can't wait to see you post a make!!!

Hey mate thank you for telling me that, done that this morning, tonight have started to cut and splice between the two programs working like a treat.
Will def put pic up after finishing. Im also doing the Bismarck which is about 70 percent done.

Many thanks

Sam

Isn't 3D Builder a great tool? I love it, but you just cannot actually sculpt. However, for building and editing files, it is great.

Unfortunately, I only work in stl and 3mf files. A trick I do to thicken up walls is to load into Chitubox, run the hollow function where you set the wall thickness, then resave it as an stl. However, in Cura, you can set your wall thickness. As far as the hull, it is double walled and on my makes of these large ships, printing the hull pieces in FDM works perfectly and they are super sturdy and no flex at all. I have seen some model files out there with a single wall and those stink - I make mine double walled with space in between. This way you can print some infill to greatly reinforce it, if desired. I will set a piece of wood cross beam to be able to screw into and while not needed, it prohibits any flexing - I could probably drop the hull off my roof and it would be fine.

Gotcha, thanks...

Hi - I have quite a few WW2 era ships already done and I can look to see if I can find some suitable QE class ships to work on. Thanks for the comment!

OK - just got a very cool design of the HMS Warspite - what a cool ship - I have to make it RC suitable!!! If you are a follower you will get a note when I get this done.

thats awsome, look forward to it

The Warspite is up and a super cool ship! I just might have to put it in my personal line up of projects.

The rudder is easily cut from the hull after printing. I leave most all rudders connected to the hull on the RC boats I create since there are such a variety of methods people do with rudders, so it is pretty common - some keep the rudders straight and just use reversing prop motors to turn, some use a servo to turn in tandem, etc. Once you cut off the rudders where appropriate, just drill a small hole for the right angle of your rod into the rudder and epoxy the rudder onto the rod and then drill up through the hull where needed - super simple.

The files all all ready for RC, with open prop shafts and hollowed hull and such. There are files for the complete hull, top, etc. as well as split sections to fit most 200mm printers. You can scale it to any size, but the scale currently is very big so you should have no problem fitting in any RC gear. While I have not started to print the Yorktown yet, it is my next project, but might be a bit before I start - I need to make room for the few others I have already built.

As far as splitting up the top deck, I 100% recommend 3D Builder to split the large stl into sizes that fit on your printer. It is either already on your computer or free from Microsoft to .

Open the entire stl, split a section off that will fit on your printer, cut the rest off (do not delete it, just cut it so you can paste it back later), save the small piece as an stl, paste back in the large section left, delete the small piece you just saved, then split the big section again and keep doing this until you have multiple small stl sections that will fit on your printer. Then load and slice in your slicer as normal.

It was just taking a previous tank design and making it RC suitable by making the top a separate piece, etc. I do not know the origin or basis of the tank, I just thought it was a cool tank design I might make someday.

Sorry, as it is frustrating!! I redid the hull section 5, which is in the folder as 5d. I could not get a repair to complete successfully, but when I slice it in Cura I do not have an issue, even if you get a warning note when you drop it in. It might show as an open edge, but should still print and as long as you use around a 15%+ infill, it should work. There is also a complete hull in the files and you can split yourself, as needed. Please let me know if not successful, as there are always a few more tricks in the bag to shore up any open spaces. How long will the final version be? I am taking a little break from printing now, and this is my next project, so super excited for it. Please post a make!!

Super easy!! I 100% recommend 3D Builder to split the large stl into sizes that fit on your printer. It is either already on your computer or free from Microsoft to .

Open the entire stl, split a section off that will fit on your printer, cut the rest off (do not delete it, just cut it so you can paste it back later), save the small piece as an stl, paste back in the large section left, delete the small piece you just saved, then split the big section again and keep doing this until you have multiple small stl sections that will fit on your printer. Then load and slice in your slicer as normal.

Your build plate on your printer is really big, so you could make a 5-6" model, no problem. I would love to see a make posted when printed!!

While I have not printed the Yorktown yet, it is my next build and am super excited to start. I already did the USS St. Louis and the USS California that turned out great.

Let me see what sources I can find, as I only modify existing stls, I don't create them entirely from scratch.

There is this and looks super nice, but it is $64 - https://cults3d.emulatorsite.com/en/3d-model/various/modernized-legendary-ex-us-oliver-hazard-perry-class-frigate-3d-print-ready - look at my response on Thingiverse for an alternative.

So if i buy it you can make it like this model? Separate details, empty hull in segments, removable deck etc? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5639327

I can only separate if they are done that way in the file, so hard to tell without seeing it. I should be able to hollow out for RC and props, no problem, though.

Ok, thank you. I will think about it and you next month. Probably i will buy it, send files to you and wait. I see in project that radars, cannon etc are separeted so only i need is divide hull to segments and make removable deck. Rest (engine and shaft mounts or rudders) i can make myself. Do you agree with this plan?

Sure. I do see that the scale size is 1:700, which is pretty small, so many of the details will be pretty thick when scaling up, like rails, etc. I make all of my RC hulls double walled to greatly increase stability.

FYI - In the very near future I think I will tackle the OHP on Thingiverse, probably within the next few weeks... I will make it available here.

Thank you very much. If you do it i will buy it. So if it will ready please write a comment. Ok?

I sure will - if you are following me, you will get a note.

OHP Class Frigate in RC scale 1;150 has been added!

Can you give link? I can't find it im yours projects.

Ok, i see. Thank you.

It looks like the bow has some issues, which I will shore up. As far as thickening the walls of the superstructure, I just need to run it through my hollow function and I will set it thicker so it will be super sturdy - just give me through the weekend and I will new files. Sorry for missing this.

Reinforced and built up all thin walls, so no issues now. You should be able to the new 'b' versions of the files. Good luck and do post a build!

Ok, thank you. Tomorow i will check it.

I will be ing a new merged stl file for 4a so should be OK if you use the new file. I will try to have it up in the next couple of days and you will get an alert as a previous er.

Sorry, I cannot help with that type of file, but unsure why you would need it if you have the stl and 3mf to slice. You might be able to find a program that would convert them, as my normal program will convert to a lot of other different 3d files, but not IPT for Autodesk.

Thanks for the note - I have added wall structure on the missing side, so should slice without issues. I have replaced the file on the model page.

All of the modified stl files are available in the zip folder.

I like your Designs

Revised Deck3 has been ed and should be good to go.

It looks like the original file I modified did not have those tubs, but it should be fairly easy to wrap some plasticard or other material around the gun areas. If a real issue I could make some. I only made it suitable for RC scale with the separations and shaft openings and such. I hope you post a build!!