85 commentaires

Hallo,
ich kenne ORCA Slicer selbst nicht, aber ich habe ein bisschen recherchiert und das hier herausgefunden :

Der Unterschied liegt wahrscheinlich nicht an der Datei des Würfels, sondern am Druckerprofil, das du im Slicer auswählst. Wenn du z. B. eine Bambu Lab auswählst, erkennt ORCA Slicer, dass dieser Drucker mit dem AMS-System mehrere Farben automatisch drucken kann – deshalb zeigt er dir 3 Farben an.

Wenn du aber eine Kobra 3 auswählst, erkennt der Slicer, dass dieser Drucker keine automatische Multi-Color-Funktion hat (außer vielleicht manuelle Farbwechsel). Deshalb zeigt er dir nur 2 Farben oder weniger an.

Kurz gesagt: ORCA zeigt dir nur die Farben an, die dein Drucker wirklich verarbeiten kann.

Ich hoffe, das hilft ein bisschen weiter!

Hallo. Vielen Dank für deine schnelle Antwort. Ich vergass zu schreiben das es eine Kobra 3 Kombo ist. Sie unterstützt den Farbwechsel. Ich habe auch schon einen dieser Probedrucke, die beim Drucker beiliegend waren, in 4 farb gemacht : Da funktionierte es.
Na ja, ich fange ja erst an mit dem 3 D Druck. Ist bestimmt nur eine Einstellungssache.
Hoffe ich zumindest.
Meine Enkelkinder warten schon sehnsüchtig auf diese Würfel :-)
Aber nocheinmal, Danke für deine Bemühung

Tut mir leid, dass ich dir nicht mehr helfen kann. Hast du schon ChatGPT oder Perplexity um Hilfe gebeten? Du kannst ihnen die Frage einfach in natürlicher Sprache stellen, und meistens finden sie eine Antwort. Vielleicht muss man in Orca angeben, dass deine Kobra 3 die Combo-Version ist, und es gibt eine bestimmte Art, das zu deklarieren.

Auf jeden Fall danke, dass du eines meiner Designs heruntergeladen hast, und viel Erfolg weiterhin! Wenn du noch Fragen hast und ich dir weiterhelfen kann, mache ich das gerne.

Huhu.
Ich wollte nur kurz bescheid sagen : Fehler gefunden.
Ich hatte beim slicen nicht alle Farben im Zulauf. ( Im ACE Pro ).
Deshalb hat er mir nur die 2 Farben angezeigt die ich geladen hatte.
Nachdem ich alle 4 Farben drin hatte und die Datei nochmal in den Slicer geladen habe, hat alles funktioniert.
Kleine Ursache, große Wirkung.
Danke nochmal für deine Hilfe. Gruß Chris

Bravo! Ein Tag, an dem man etwas dazulernt, ist ein schöner Tag. Weiterhin viel Erfolg und vielleicht bis bald. Olivier

Bonjour. Les s sont facultatifs et je les ai modélisés spécialement pour ce design, mais je ne vois pas en quoi ils ressemblent à une poubelle. Par contre n'activez pas la fonction de votre slicer. Tout ça est expliqué plus en détail dans la documentation.

Hi, that’s a very good observation. If you change filament at a specific layer, then yes, the entire layer changes color. And with a printer that doesn’t multi-color printing, that’s the only way to do it. However, my model is made of separate parts with different colors assigned to them. Printers that multi-color printing handle this automatically and switch colors whenever needed—even multiple times within the same layer if necessary. This allows for more possibilities and requires no manual intervention, although it does take longer to print and results in a bit of waste. That said, I’ve printed a few cubes on an Ender 3, and while the blue is visible on the sides in that case, it actually looks pretty nice aesthetically.

Ok bien reçu.
J'ai fini par imprimer la couche entière d'une autre couleur et le résultat est stupéfiant.

Bonjour. Merci d'avoir acheté ce design, en tout cas d'essayer :-).
Je ne suis pas la personne à qui s'adresser pour ce genre de problème technique, car c'est un problème technique lié au site lui-même. Je n'ai absolument pas la main sur cet aspect. Il faut donc er Cults3d directement. Et ne vous inquiétez pas, la plateforme est sûre et gère des milliers de vente chaque jour, donc il y aura vite une solution. En plus ils sont français vous n'aurez donc aucun problème pour dialoguer. Ils ne répondront pas dans la minute mais en 24h ça devrait être réglé.
Revenez vers moi si ça persiste, je secouerai un peu le cocotier :-).
Merci encore et vraiment désolé pour ce contretemps.

You can sell all my models if you get a license on my Patreon.

For context, the project in question is the Switch storage cube.

I'm sorry for the mistake. Originally, there were only 3 files to print for the internal chain. Now, there are 4. There are actually 5 files because I left the option to choose between a short or a long final link.

As for the rest, the details of the files to print and their quantity are indicated in the same section. Otherwise, in the "Inner Systems" folder, there's a document called "Inner System Mounting.pdf", which provides even more precise instructions.

In summary, the sentence you quoted is outdated. But everything else is correct—the list is accurate, and out of the 5 elements in the folder, only 4 need to be printed since one of them has two different versions.

I sincerely apologize for the confusion, and thank you for your interest in my work!

Hi, thanks for reaching out! It sounds like there might have been an issue with the assembly. Without seeing it, it's hard to say exactly what went wrong. Could you send me a short video showing what happens when you try to fold the cube? That would help me understand the issue better. You can send it to [email protected]. Looking forward to your message!

Hi, thank you for your interest. as for a version of this cube for SD cards, it exists already. Check out my older designs :-)

Hi, can you send me some pictures of the part you have to remove ? And a screenshot of the print in your slicer ? [email protected]
I printed it on a Ender 3 pro with no special settings in cura, I'm very surprised you had problems.

A SD MICRO SD cube already exists among my designs. As for the portal companion cube, it has been asked many times. And I have it in mind, but believe me, it's quite challenging. The thickness in the corners is the big problem. The hinges should be moved and I explain just the easy part. So yes, it would be great, I would love to do it, but no I won't make it in the next week's nor the next months I guess. And I can't even guarantee I will do it one day.

Thank you for your suggestion and your interest anyway.

Fully understand! keep up the good work! :)

btw, the cube without the links fitted closes perfectly. Also if I remove one link from the chain it works well, but it's better looking to have all links inside

Hi. Well, this is not a small issue. Can you send me a photo to my mailbox [email protected] Did you print from STL or 3mf ?

What file do you want to open on your printer? I don't know your printer, but generally you first open a file in your slicer then generate a gcode that you open/send to your printer

Hello. How strange. I ed the files right now and checked. The path to Model 2 is "Storage Cube For Printing>Boxes>Model 002". Did you try with another archive reader ?

The cube for 13 is the new one, for 12, the older one. The older one is easier to print with no adherence problems. The new one needs the use of a skirt or glue spray (better). But with the new one you have a lot of potiential decoration, and 13 games (the holders are thinner). Make your choice :-), and thank you. Sorry that I am not fast enough to make that cube for memory cards. It might take some time.

Thanks for the quick reply, will need to decide which is better for me. Also not sure what you mean about the memory card cube. I only asked about if it was included which you already kindly answered about saying it's part of the . Appreciate the thought though, more then some people would give.

No no no !!! I think we misunderstood each other. You can put MicroSD cards in the switch box thanks to an adapter. 2 microSD cards in the place of one Switch cartridge. But this cube can not hold SD cards. ONLY MicroSD and Switch cartridges.

Ok, that is 100% my fault. I more then likely said SD when I meant to say Microsd in the other question. Really sorry for confusing you all this time.

No it's ok. Now I just have more time to make the cube for SD cards :-). You're a really kind person, don't worry about me, I'm good.

You are a kind person as well. Hopefully by end of tomorrow I'll have at least one of your designs printing and I'll be keeping an eye on what else you make.

Hi again, just one last question, will this work on an eligoo printer?

Hi. Any fdm printer (with PLA). It won't work if you print on a SLA printer (with resin). There are parts that need to be flexible, which impossible with resin.

Hi. No it doesn't work with resin. It will break. It's written in the printing parameters section.

Well, how lucky you are. Before the end of the week, I will publish an actual Game Cube. Will it be on cults3d or only my patreon, I still don't know. Follow me here on cults and as a free member on my patreon and for sure you will have news quickly.

Hello. What you're experiencing happened to me as well, and it depends on many factors. The printer, the filament, basically, we can get different results each time. But fortunately, PLA has the advantage of naturally correcting dimensional issues. Once you manage to close it, the more you do it, and especially the longer you leave your box closed, the closure mechanism will loosen up and eventually work normally. But the first time, it can be a bit tricky. I will update the documentation to clarify all of this when I get the chance.
First, make sure that you have printed the clips on the front sides of the lid. They are essential to be able to open the box once it's closed. If you have holes instead of clips, it means you forgot to open the studs.stl file along with the lid before slicing. You’ll need to reprint it if that’s the case.

For the closure itself, you’ll need to identify where it’s getting stuck, play around a bit laterally, and apply a bit of force to get it closed. You’ll notice that the problem lies on the outer part of the male side of the closure, on each side. You need to manage to bend them slightly inward. There was even one instance where I had to slightly bevel the corners (on the outside) with pliers where they were hitting the female side. But that’s really a last resort. It is possible to close it once you understand which parts need to insert. Once you’ve closed it once, your problem is solved. You can wait a bit if you’re patient, or open and close it until it becomes easier. The first opening will also be difficult, but it will get easier with time. That’s the advantage of PLA.

In conclusion, I’m sorry that everything isn’t perfect. The question obviously arises about revising the closure system to make it more flexible, but it’s very delicate to find the right setting that will work for everyone’s printing parameters. There will always be some for whom it’s too tight, and others for whom it’s too loose. But this is not a problem I’m ignoring. I’m thinking about the best approach.Once again, I apologize, and I hope my explanations will help you resolve the issue. Please let me know if you still need any assistance.

See my video here
https://youtu.be/i2mgxt46ZMA

The roll up part does not seem to work

Oooooooh ok ! Now I see. In fact there is no roll-up part. It's an accordion part. Look carefully to my inner chain assembly tutorial, the hinges are alternatively facing up and down. You just have to turn upside down every other hinge. It will work now.
But you have another problem. Everything is too tight. You clearly have a horizontal expansion problem. Read carefully the dimensional accuracy section of my documentation. You will have to tune the right parameter of your slicer to slightly increase the gaps between the parts. Make tests in an iteration process by printing a hinge and a holder and assembling them. The parameter to set is different depending on the slicer. Everything is explained in the documentation.
Today is the day where your cube will work perfectly :-). I don't tell good luck, it's not luck. Have a nice day.

Yes, to my email address. I want to give you the opportunity to try this cube with resin, if you want of course.

Hi. At the beginning, the lid may be sometimes difficult to open, but it gets easier with time. This is PLA after all.
In your case, it may be something else. Because it happened to me too. I had forgotten to open the studs with the top face. They allow to grab the lid firmly and make the opening much easier. Are the studs present on the front of the lid or are there holes ?

You should go to my Patreon page (link in my profile), subscribe as a free member and ask in the discussion thread named buyers meet sellers (in my Patreon). Don't ask here. Only authorized people can sell you my objects and they're all in my Patreon.