Maker of mainly Star Wars and Antiquities. Just a part time gig for now. :)
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looking at the Crashed Tie Fighter - 2 Pieces. is the cockpit hollow as looking to make a fish aquarium air model to go with AT-AT
I just updated the files to include a hollow version with drain holes. Thats what I use when I make them for Aquariums. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Hi, I see you have a damaded tie fighter, it looks nice. But do you have a "clean" tie fighter so I can have both damaged and in good shape on the same table ? I'd like to get it from you to have the exact same scale, it's for Legion.
Yes, I have a clean version. If you buy the damaged one, just shoot me an email, and I'll send you the clean version. No charge.
Sorry, I just realized that you already purchased it. Shoot me an email - [email protected] and I'll send you the clean version.
Hi there, I purchased the crashed TIE which states no s but Bambu Studio is throwing up issues with it requiring s and when I go to add them they're all over the place and look like they're gonna be a nightmare - any suggestions at all?
Hi. So, the way I print it (in Bambu studio as well) is without s. There will be some tiny areas that will have some filament hanging down, but it actually looks exactly like wires, and thereby adding to the look of a wrecked tie fighter. If you shoot me an email, I can send you some photos of what it looks like printed with no s. I think you will like it. If not, I can show you exactly where to "paint on " s within Bambu studio, or I can send you a 3MF file with the s painted on. Your choice. I always print mine without s.
[email protected] is my email.
Can confirm that this was error and the files are of superb quality! Really appreciate the time you've taken to help me through the process!
It's always my pleasure to help out a fellow printer!
Dear customer,
Thank you so much for choosing and purchasing my 3D models! 🌟 Your is truly appreciated. As a ionate 3D sculptor, it brings me immense joy to know that my creations are being enjoyed and brought to life by talented individuals like you.
🚀 PLEASE SHARE! Once you’ve printed and assembled the models, I would be incredibly grateful if you could share your masterpiece with me. You can either tag me on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/yerayllinares_3dart) or a “Make” on the Cults platform. Seeing your creations and the unique touches you bring to them really makes my day. 😊
I’d like to remind you that the files purchased are for personal use only 🏡. However, if you’re feeling entrepreneurial and are interested in selling your prints based on my designs, I have fantastic news! 🎉 By ing my Patreon (https://www.patreon.com/yerayllinares3DArt), not only will allows you to sell these prints, but you’ll also gain access to additional designs, immediate notifications when new models are available, and an invitation to a private Discord channel. 📢 This channel offers you the unique opportunity to suggest ideas for new creations, further involving you in the creative process. Let’s collaborate! 💡 This way, you’re not just ing my work; we’re collaborating and growing together in this exciting creative journey!
Thank you once again for your and for being part of my artistic path. Your enthusiasm and creativity inspire me to keep pushing the boundaries of 3D sculpting. I’m eagerly looking forward to seeing your amazing prints!
Best regards,
Hi! I have purchased the XWing Crashed (very good job by the way) and I have a doubt when it comes to painting it to introduce it into an aquarium... Do you have any recommendations for painting it like you did for the photo? Any type of paint that is not harmful to aquatic life? Thank you
Thank you very much for the kind words. To seal models for Aquariums, I use a product called Plastidip. I have done much research on this, and it appears to be the most widely used product by the aquarium community. I use the clear version for obvious reasons. It will seal the model and give it almost a slight rubbery feel. Here is a link to Amazon. I'm not sure if you live int he US, but if you do, you can also find it cheaper in person at hardware stores like Lowes, Home Depot, or Ace Hardware. Best of luck, and please a picture when you're all done. I'd love to see it!
Sorry, I just realized that I only answered half your question. I use acrylic paints, like those used for painting miniatures. I'll post a link of a descent starter paint set. The first thing you'll want to do is prime the model, as 3D printed filament doesn't like to absorb paint very well. It's not essential, but it does make your job a lot easier, and makes the final product much better. I like to you a rattle can primer that actually has filler in it, so that it helps to hide the layer lines. (link below). I start painting the model by airbrushing the damaged areas with black. It's ok if you don't have an airbrush. A nice dry-brush technique will work as well. (just YouTube dry brush techniques. It's very simple). Then I will add some colors to the areas that need it. For things like stripes and logos I will mask them off with tape so that they look crisper, and then go back and add some grey to the edges, making it look like some of the colored paint has chipped or peeled off (assuming that grey is your base color). After all that is done, I will seal the model with a clear coat (not plastidip yet), and then apply a dark and brown wash). This will "dirty up" the model, and get in all the cracks and make it look like the model has been through some harsh battles. I hope this helps!
Oh! Sorry, three days have ed since you replied but I just realized now. Thank you very much for such an extensive and detailed response!
For now, I sent the piece to be printed because my printer was too small... so I'm waiting to receive it next week. I had it printed in white PETG... I read that it was the best material for aquariums...
The idea I had was also with acrylic paint and starting by giving it a light gray coat with some acrylic spray paint... and then going with the details of the side red lines and finishing with the black marks and so on... What I hadn't considered was the issue of priming, I hadn't thought about that!
I'm in Spain, so your work has crossed the Atlantic! Thank you very much for the links, I'll see if they have them on Amazon Spain. As soon as it's ready, I'll send you a photo!
Awesome! I can't wait to see how it comes out! Best of luck, and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out. You can find me on instagram. https://www.instagram.com/inspectas_gadgets?igsh=dHRsdTc5NmUwYmRn&utm_source=qr
How many pieces does the Turbo Laser Dice Tower print in? And what is the estimated print time?
The entire print is split into 4 pieces (Main Tower, Turret top, Gun, Swivel bearing). I print mine at .12 layer height on my Bambu X1C, and it takes 13 hours. This is a very fast printer, so if you're printing on an Ender-3 (or similar), I would suggest a .20 layer height. The tower will take about 20 hours, and the other 3 pieces, about 4 hours. It really depends on your printer speed.
Thank you
Hi there, I purchased your crashed one-piece Razercrest stl but discovered it is a hard file to set up for a printer. Do you have any alternatives that you can send that may be orientated properly, have a flat bottom, or are split into smaller pieces? With all due respect, this file has many issues that make it incredibly hard to print for a novice like myself.
Hi there. I can certainly help you out. Shoot me a message at [email protected] and I will be more than happy to send you some other files that will work for you. The one that you purchased is intended for larger printers or smaller ones (if you cut them into pieces with your slicer). If you don't know how to cut them up, I can show you. It's pretty simple.
Hi George. That's very strange. I haven't received any other complaints about the files being corrupted, but I'll send you the files directly to your Gmail of that works. Maybe the Cults corrupted them.
Purchased your Star Wars Laser Turbo Gun Turret. All the files are corrupt and cannot be opened. Please advise.
George Marus. : [email protected]
Just ed this & the version that is shown in your images is not included... I can't use the one with the hole in the front.
Hi Kyle. My apologies. Send me your email, and I'll send you the one in the picture. Thanks for letting me know. I will also update the listing to include both versions.
Better yet, email me - [email protected]. This way you don't have to post your email address for everyone to see.
Just shot you and email, thank you!