Airsoft Grenade Impact Cap Grenade WW2 Soviet RG42 Low Profile Fuze Sound Grenade "Meteorite" Grenade Airsoft réutilisable

The text guide for the Meteorite system should still be accurate, I will be updating it when I get a moment, I recommend using both of the Meteorite assembly videos linked on this page, especially for the spring bending.

Find the updated fuze guide here: https://youtu.be/Td4vOcRZw6M

The Meteorite, an airsoft impact grenade which uses readily available cap gun 8 shot rings to make a loud bang. I get my caps from a small UK business called bangstuff.co.uk for £2 for 12 rings. Which is around 18-20p per shot. Much cheaper than disposable airsoft grenades but also a lot easier, safer and lighter than blank firing grenades!

• Can be used for airsoft, gelsoft, paintball, Nerf, re-enactments etc.

• Spring-loaded impact fuze for quick detonation, the enemy has no time to escape! If the fuze is tuned correctly I can get them to go off from a few inches drop onto Lino flooring.

• Very cheap to run, cap gun caps can be found in many shops and online too. And if you use decent caps (Sohni-Wicke recommended) the Meteorite can be a lot louder than what you expect. Customers have told me they're not far off .209s and in my experience the volume difference is negligible.

• Easy to reset, no tools needed.

• Low-profile pin-only fuze, a happy compromise between the realistic spoon fuze and the Twist Head fuze.

• Styled to look like a Soviet WW2 RG42 grenade, designed to look as realistic as possible.

• Easy to print and assemble. Modular design allows for quick replacement of broken or worn out parts. Minimal hardware needed.

Non-printed parts list:

8 shot cap gun caps (obviously).

1x Cut down AEG spring (OD 14mm, ID 12mm MINIMUM), I recommend using an M110 airsoft AEG spring, I found that 35mm is the best length, don't worry about the leftover hooked end in fact the cut end helps dig into the plastic and hold it in place. Too weak of a spring won't strike the caps hard enough and too strong of a spring will make the Fuze more insensitive.

AEG SPRING ALTERNATIVE: Any spring with an OD of 14mm, a wire diameter of 1.4mm and at least 35mm long will work. I now use 1.4x14x40mm springs that I cut down to approximately 38mm before I bend the spring. You don't have to bend the spring but I strongly recommend you follow my updated fuze guide if you want the best performance out of your fuze.

1x M5x50mm Roofing bolt for the firing mechanism. Needs quite a low but wide truss head, 12mm head diameter maximum.

1x 3x25mm Cotter split pin for the safety pin.

1x Key ring for safety pin.

Threadlocker, superglue or similar (recommended).

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:

Print parts, remove s and check fitting, some sanding and trimming of the Fuze heads may be necessary. The Fuze and Body should screw together and undo relatively easily. The Cap Carriage should be able to drop inside the grenade body without getting stuck. The Striker's smaller end should fit inside the main spring.

Screw the M5x50mm bolt through the Sear. Make sure the Sear sits flush against the underside of the bolt head. The bolt should cut it's own threads but you can use an M5 tap if you wish. Threadlocker is strongly recommended to prevent the sear spinning loose. If it does loosen you might find it difficult to cock the grenade.

the M5 bolt and Sear assembly through the top hole of the Fuze, the Sear and bolt should slide down through the hole without binding up. Take the cut Spring and slide it over the bolt end sticking out of the bottom of the Fuze, the cut end should rest against the little step in the spring hole. This forces the spring sideways to help the Sear catch on the Fuze, otherwise the grenade would be very difficult to cock. Next take the Striker and screw the M5 bolt through the hole in the Striker, make sure the smaller end of the Striker fits inside the spring. The bolt should cut it's own threads. The spring should be sandwiched between the Striker and the Fuze base. It might be a little tricky. The bolt end should be flush with the bottom of the Striker.

The Striker hole is offset from the centre. This is intentional as you'll need to turn the whole bolt assembly until the larger area of the Striker is pointing the same way as the slot on the side of the Fuze. Once again make sure the cut spring end is sitting on the step inside the spring hole on the Fuze bottom. Once this is done you should be able to compress the spring and the Sear should catch into the sloped area of the Fuze. If at any point the Meteorite doesn't reset properly, check the Strikers alignment. It doesn't need to be perfect, but make sure it's pointing the right way. Once cocked, the mechanism should fire on impact.

The safety pin can be splayed slightly so it doesn't fall out of the fuze head when inserted. You will need to turn the pin as you insert it but you shouldn't need to force it through.

The Cap Carriage can be stored in the Body of the Meteorite. Screw the Fuze into the Body. The Meteorite is complete.

Using the Meteorite:

Remove the pin, unscrew the Fuze. Push up on the Striker to compress the spring. The Sear and bolt should lock into place in the Fuze with the sear catching on the sloped trough in the Fuze. Reinstall the safety pin. Gently press an 8 shot cap ring onto the Cap Carriage pins, it may help to gently press the Carriage on a flat surface to force the caps on. Once the Cap Carriage is loaded, drop it into the grenade Body, make sure the TOP side is facing upwards. If it's inverted you can jiggle the grenade until it's the correct orientation. Don't worry about the loose Cap Carriage, once the Fuze is screwed into the Body there is not enough space for the Cap Cartridge to flip or to jam (it might rock around but once the grenade fires it slams down flat) inside the grenade. Screw the Fuze into the Body if you haven't already.

The Meteorite is now loaded. Remove the pin, the grenade is now live and armed. A strong enough impact should detonate the grenade. Once fired the caps can be pulled off the Cap Cartridge and fresh ones pressed into place. I recommend carrying many pre-loaded Cap Carriages to speed up reloading.

With a ring of 8 caps firing at once the Meteorite is very loud, arguably comparable to most airsoft disposable pyro grenades.

Do NOT store the Meteorite cocked!

For airsoft use ONLY. Use only on private land with permission or at a proper airsoft site. Use responsibly, I'm not responsible for any harm or damage from misuse or malicious use of this device. Check with your airsoft site first. Keep away from ears, this is still a noisemaker at the end of the day. Do not use in confined spaces. Unload/disarm before entering safezones. Wear face protection when playing airsoft. Do NOT store or transport loaded. Be careful where you throw this, it's lighter than a BFG but is still a solid object. FOR CAP GUN CAPS ONLY!

I do not authorise reselling of this design, physical or electronic.

Caps, bolts, springs, threadlocker, pins and key rings not included.

This is the filament I use ( link): https://amzn.to/495DR9W

Printed on an Ender 3 with a mixture of Olive Green and Black Esun PLA+ filament. Sliced with Cura.

The Spoon is included in all variants of the Meteorite grenade but is only required for the Spoon Head fuze setup, otherwise the file is included to allow you to use the grenade variants with pre-existing Meteorite Spoon fuzes.

Print Body, Sear, Striker, Cap Carriage and Fuze standing on their base.
Resolution: 0.24mm layer height minimum for everything apart from the Cap Cartridge which I recommend 0.12mm. I also printed the Body with the Fuzzy Skin setting on Cura, this isn't necessary but if you do make sure you select Outside Only!
Infill: I tend to use Grid, 20% minimum for everything apart from the Cap Carriage, Striker and Sear which need to be 100%. Increasing the Wall count on the Body and Fuze to 3-4 might be a good idea too.
s: For the Body and Fuze. I STRONGLY recommend setting the angle to 80 degrees for the Body or you'll have one big lump of s. You only need s in the rectangular cutouts.
Bed Adhesion: Shouldn't be needed. Skirts are always good practice
Material: I use eSun PLA+, and frankly this stuff is incredibly robust. I advise against PETG given although on paper it should work if the PETG is used correctly.
Some sanding and trimming may be necessary before assembly. Once the fuze and body screw together they tend to loosen up as they bed in.

I also recommend you print the Fuze with a Concentric top skin and ironing too, set the ironing to Lines or Zig Zag. This helps strengthen the central hole in the Fuze.

https://youtube.com/shorts/kN0LfbdkicA
https://youtube.com/shorts/jjKB4IKggrM
https://youtu.be/IcevIbdQQa4
https://youtu.be/2umr6VRLcnU

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