Copied from my Patreon: patreon.com/kprintz3d
Hey Y'all, With this post I'm making it official that RC crawling will be my full time focus moving forward. I apologize for anyone that came for the art but I'm getting way more recognition and traction in the RC community than I ever did with my psychedelic art. It also been more fun an still satisfies my creative itch.
With all that said, I would like to introduce my third obstacle course. I think its my best and most challenging one yet. The best part is that most of the rails except the shallow ramp to ground are double sided and reversible so you can always keep it fresh.
An other new feature is that the stream lined stilts now offer a multitude of mounting holes to fit the rails perfectly for any rig. It doesn't matter if it's 1/24 or 1/18. Can be adjusted to any sized in between.
Just like my other sets, All parts are compatible with the previous set. All you need are M3 screws and washers. An electric screw driver is also recommended. Feel free to mix and match the sets to make as many challenges as possible.
PDFs are included showing the course in some example configurations.
The truck featured in the video is a Traxxas TRX4M utilizing a 3D printed chassis I'm now calling the Leela Bug Chassis.
It's a fairly simple design that helps reduce weight and COG by eliminating the need for a traditional hard body. Not compatible with any style of other body. I will work on a version with post for lexan bodies in the furture.
The best advantage of this chassis is that it angles the skid plate slightly forward to help reduce hang-ups and improve breakover. Compatible with stock skid or any brand of skid with the same configuration. This build has the brass Injora skid plate.
Assembly is pretty simple.
Attach the rails to the skid using the stock screws. Install what ever battery tray and electronics you want. It should be compatible with any battery tray.
I used a Radiolink R6FG receiver and the Injora Fat Viper Brushless System with a Zeee 650mah 3S Lipo in a custom battery pocket. The pocket needs adjustments but enough people keep asking for the chassis so I'm releasing it now. I'll get around to releasing that in the future.
Once all your electronics are installed and managed, mount the shocks using the stock shock screws. Depending on where you mount the front shocks, you may have to go into the roof section. Treat that situation and the rear the same: screw the shocks into place with the screws flush almost poking through the rails. Then line the screws with the hood or rear cross bar then tighten. I repeat, you don't have to mount into the hood. it can be held with its own screws. You just might find yourself wanting too. The rear needs to use the round cross bar to maintain strength and rigidity.
The roof is the final piece. Make sure to make your on/off switch easy to reach. I routed mine to the rear window.
Be careful to not over tighten, use a manual screw driver for this. All assembly of center pieces such as roof, hood, and crossbar all use stock shock size screws. If you've bought any aftermarket shocks you should have some extra.
I'm including 3MF(PLA+) and STL files for everything. But you should know what your printer/ filament is capable of better than anyone. Nothing requires s. I advise using liquid bed adhesive.
Happy printing and crawling everyone. Thank you to the RC community for showing me more than I thought my designs and content would. I truly appreciate it!
#rccrawler #rccrawlercourse #3dprinting
