Here's the model and files for a two part mold to create one of my more popular designs in body-safe silicone. There are a ton of these in the collection lined below (free and otherwise) :
https://cults3d.emulatorsite.com/en/design-collections/FunDesigns/toys-with-silicone-molds
Here's the full set of ribbed dildo models in this series:
https://cults3d.emulatorsite.com/en/3d-model/naughties/ribbed-dildo-toys-6-variations
And the how-to guide for pouring the silicone (different toy model from the photo shoot, but the process is the same):
Pre Work:
Print Toy Design for Sizing / Inspection (Plastic is Cheap, Silicone is Not)
Gather Ingredients
1. Body Safe Silicone (I Use Dragon Skin Platinum 10, Longer Cure Time is Better to Minimize Bubbles)
2. Disposable Mixing Cups and Sticks
3. Clamps
4. Silicone Pigment (Optional for Coloring, I Use Silc Pig)
5. Tooth Picks (Again, Optional for Coloring)
6. Plastic/Cardboard/Foil For Covering Work Area (This is Messy)
7. Gloves, Safety Glasses and Any Other PPE (Read Instructions on Chemicals to Validate)
8. Vacuum Degasser (Optional but Reduces Risk of Bubbles).
9. Rock Tumbler or Something Else to Cause Vibrations (Also Optional, but Helps with Bubbles if You Can't Degass
10. Mold release agent. (Petroleum jelly works fine.)
Print Mold Files (Picture 1)
Prepare Mold
1. Sand as smooth as possible (Picture 2). Any imperfections will be visible in the final toy and print lines can harbor bacteria if they are deep enough. Make sure two halves fit snugly together and sand flat edges and registration bumps (gently) if the mold halves do not fit tightly.
2. Cover interior of each mold half with release agent (petroleum jelly is used here, picture 3).
3. Wipe away excess release agent (a light coating is all it takes), picture 4).
4. Clamp mold halves together (picture 5). The registration bumps should help line it up, but check to make sure all external edges are flush. You want it as tight as possible without warping or breaking the plastic to minimize leakage.
Prepare Work Area and Ingredients (Pictures 6-9)
1. Gather everything you will need. It's much easier to get it organized before you start dealing with chemicals.
2. Open silicone and pigments. (Again, it's easier to have it ready to go.
3. Measure Silicone Parts A & B into Two Disposable Cups
4. Add Coloration Pigment (Optional, but Silicone Tends to be Milky Clear to White Without It). Enough to cover the end of a toothpick or two is usually enough for a single toy pour but adjust as needed. Silc Pig at least comes out roughly the same color before and after the silicone cures. BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET PIGMENT ON ANYTHING. A SPECK WILL STAIN ANYTHING IT TOUCHES.
5. Mix two parts of silicone together. You want it to be thoroughly mixed but also try to mix in as few bubbles as possible.
6. Degass Silicone if you have a vacuum chamber. I don't and it usually still comes out fine with long-cure silicone. It's worth the investment if you are planning to create many toys and is a must if you want to create anything to sell.
Pour Silicone into Mold (Pictures 10/11)
1. Err on the side of over-filling. No mold will be perfect so assume some will leak through the gaps. It won't make much difference in the final toy if the base is a little thinner than the design model.
2. Set up rock tumbler or other tool to vibrate the mold if you have one handy. This helps get rid of bubbles. (Picture 14) The idea is to add gentle vibrations but be sure not to accidentally knock over the mold.
Let Silicone Cure per the Instructions on the Packaging
Don't get impatient and poke it before it is ready. It will be very messy and there's a good chance you'll introduce bubbles or never get the top to lie flat again (trust me on this).
Remove Clamps and Open Mold Halves
You might need to gently pry it open with a knife or screwdriver, just be careful not to damage the edge more than needed if you want to reuse it.
Remove, Prepare, and INSPECT The Final Toy
1. Remove toy from mold. It should come out easily with the release agent.
2. Trim excess silicone away from the base and any mold lines (picture 12). A razor blade or hobby knife works best, just be careful. It is easy to cut too deep.
3. INSPECT THE TOY for excessive bubbles or holes created by bubbles during curing. IF YOU CAN'T SCRUB IT CLEAN, IT IS NOT SAFE TO USE. (Picture 13) is an attempt that had large surface bubbles because I made the mistake of buying super-fast cure silicone. (Pictures 15-17) are a slower-cure pour attempt that had bubbles present, but nothing that would make it unsafe.
Enjoy! As long as you are careful prying the mold open, it should be usable many more times.
Please let me know if you try this and especially if you have any questions or issues. Below are some links to the products I use in my builds/designs. Don't feel obligated to buy through the links, it just helps me out on the stuff I put up for free.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Silc Pig Coloring Pigment
A little bit goes a super long way. I'm still working my way through the "trial" pack after a number of pours.
https://www.amazon.com/Silc-Pig-Silicone-Pigment-9-Pack-Sampler/dp/B005ZH0SFU?&_encoding=UTF8&tag=fundesigns3d-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=d3690823f956a9a101cb9457d73f7bf3&camp=1789&creative=9325
Dragon Skin Platinum 10 Silicone, Medium Hardness, Medium Cure Time (Extra Long Cure is Better but Amazon Rarely Carries It)
https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Dragon-Skin-10-Medium/dp/B00NH0RHBK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2CIM1ZVY20KRW&keywords=%2522dragon%252Bskin%252B10%2522&qid=1694892075&sprefix=dragon%252Bskin%252B10%252B%252Caps%252C118&sr=8-4&th=1&_encoding=UTF8&tag=fundesigns3d-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=ba82d781d067f2e6fb94d394e41e140b&camp=1789&creative=9325
Dragon Skin Platinum 20 Silicone, Firm (Extra Long Cure)
This makes the best quality casts in my opinion but tends to be a little on the hard side. Don't use if you want a soft toy.
https://www.amazon.com/Dragon-Skin-Making-Silicone-Rubber/dp/B00SK4B9IA/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=dragon%252Bskin%252Bplatinum&qid=1694892369&sr=8-2&th=1&_encoding=UTF8&tag=fundesigns3d-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=673b51a4bec2ec8e1d3779b08a39b1d9&camp=1789&creative=9325
Overture PLA, Black
This is the best cheap PLA I've found so far. It works well at 220 degrees and I've had no issues on my Anycubic Kobra 2 printer at least. Anything black that you see in my print photos is made of this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGY2JP1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1&_encoding=UTF8&tag=fundesigns3d-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=88bc7715885413afa426806c1e68881f&camp=1789&creative=9325
Alginate (For Casting Objects Directly), See my Cloning Instructions Also on Cults
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PULSRM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&_encoding=UTF8&tag=fundesigns3d-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=1971d0f491b95e9debcd66afa25ded41&camp=1789&creative=9325
Disposable Measuring Cups and Stirring Sticks
These things are great! I only made the mistake once of ruining a glass measuring cup and getting yelled at.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DC81C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&_encoding=UTF8&tag=fundesigns3d-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=c0f33dadbbcb376f65b2c29d4d22c048&camp=1789&creative=9325
I'm eventually planning to turn this into a real business but just about everything is up for free for now, so enjoy and be sure to anything you might want later.
Any and all (good or bad) is greatly appreciated. Please reach out to me on here or at [email protected] with any comments/questions/requests/!
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