Badger - 1/10 scale Front Wheel Drive RC Buggy

IS THERE A FILE FOR THE REAR ARMS AT 2.5 AND 3 INSTEAD OF 3.5? .... JUST STARTING TO PRINT THIS BEAST

Nice design, Mine is all printed and waiting for parts. I printed the body with 2 perimeters and %5 infill, std pla. It seems very thin and measures less then a mm, about .72. Is this correct? Just wondering if theres a way to make it thicker, turn up the flow maybe?
I tried TPU for the wing, I like how it turned out, but its a bit floppy. If theres a way I can make it thicker without editing the files Id like to know. If not Ill just make a reinforcement piece to go on the bottom of the wing.
thanks for everything!

Do not print the FrontPivot01 on its 'back' (large flat side). The layer lines give it no strength and a little bump (into a concrete wall) with front wheels will rip the rod going through it out. I think it will orient 'standing up', and that is likely the intended print orientation. By printing standing up, with lots of perimeters, the layer lines wrap around the inner cylinder where the bar will go and the bar will have to rip through layers all along its length. So I'll replace both these parts with printed ones standing up and I plan to print in TPU. With TPU I am hoping that adds some 'shock absorbsion' to it as well.

I just started on the print today, for some reason I thought it was printed with a 0.2 nozzle... so i've still got 6hrs left of an 18hr print for the rear arms!! they look great. I'll be putting that 0.4 back in tomorrow!

I just added real rubber to Badger .. Tires with Foam for Traxxas Redcat HPI by ZD Racing 1/10 87x40 (front) and 87x32. What a difference on asphalt. Only $20 Cdn so very cheap. Can't see using TPU vs rubber, although NinjaTek now make an Edge filament that looks interesting. This is a really good design. Handling is exceptional. Deserves its own Discord space.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002616758845.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802JY3CX2

I did a series of videos on my build to assist anyone just starting out in the RC/3D printing world. The last video with a test run of the "Red Bull Badger" is at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ixAPHiOda8

This is a great design and deserves to be widely built. Did you ever consider the HSP 02024 differential? It only has 2 internal small gears but is about 1/3 the cost and more available than the other 2 you used. I plan to make a mod for that diff for the belt drive. I also modded your X cross piece to include a tab for my ESC. Do you mind if I post that to my Printables site for others to use? (you are welcome to the STL if you'd prefer to distribute). I've also created some build videos that people new to 3D printing &/or RC cars might find useful.. https://youtu.be/jV738TF0sio . My belts from Ali got lost in the ether and have to re-order so will be another 3-5 weeks before my version gets active.

For my setup, I ordered a 60A ESC and it has a fan.. and in Chassis03, the on/off switch plate is right over the fan.. so I need to move that plate down the arm a bit and the cutout and screw holes have a bit different dimension. Wonder if you mind giving a STEP file (or fusion 360 if you use it) for Chassis03.. Or would you prefer I just import the STL and modify myself. Waiting on a belt, but have the belt drive/chassis/rear arms/shocks/wheels done & mostly assembed (will obviously have to insert belt when received) so far. All prints going well.

I assume the body & fin are all held by 3mm screws. Body01 looks to hold the screw head but the hole in the STL is less than 3mm which means you will need to drill it out if you want the screw shaft to slide in this part and screw into Body02. The torque ripped the model in my first attempt so I had to really hold those tabs tight.

I think you worked on wheel medium which has the same issue and you fixed it, but you called it wheelwide.. so you have a wheel medium not fixed and wheelwide is wheelmedium fixed..

the wheelwide01.stl had the centre lower than the rim, so the entire rim first layer is not sitting on the build plate (at least on my PSlicer 2.5). I trimmed 0.2 off the bottom and all is well. I could not print the bridge well, on the underside of the rim.. I added another circle of 1/2 way between the existing hub and the outer wall.

Yeah.. printing tires with 20% infill & 3 walls created bricks.. Used Eryone TPU (95A shore). I finally got good results with 2 perimeters & 2 top/bottom walls and 5% infill. 220/65 on my MK3+, print move speeds were 20 & 35mm. 1mm retraction & 30% cooling (enabled auto cooling). I loosened the idler (double geared, direct drive) so it just catches the TPU and you MUST use a release agent on your sheet. I used glue stick on rough PEI bed and worked great. All tires printed without incident. (I also dried TPU for 5 hours before printing even though it was new as much filament I've been getting new has moisture in it and I live near ocean.). I used additional under wheels (hubs) as I couldn't do the span. Added about 5 narrow strips of across wheel at right angles to the bridge direction.

The yellow shocks in your image showing the battery and in the video by RC Legends shows a different 3d Printed shock. These are also different than your oil shock design on Cults. It looks like it is adjustable with a threaded part at the top of the shock. The RC Legends guy in his video says it is not a damper.. but when he flexes down on the back end.. it sure looks like it is damping. Are you releasing any info on this shock? I'm about to print the shocks as a temp part. Just printing the tires in TPU and they aren't off the bed yet, but look like they will come out.. Wasn't sure on the infill so used 20%.. The rims printed well, but had to add "painted on" on the underside. I've got a Mk3s+ but I couldn't get it to come close to spanning that bridge length.

could NOT get Cults to render ....

Okay .. I don't see any details on servo connection to steering.. just an image of the linkage.. are you using a metal servo arm that comes with servos or creating your own arm (which hasn't worked out well on one model I'm making .. metal 25T gear on plastic for servos doesn't seem to work for me). I didn't see any details on the web pics (some pics on cults page won't render) nor did I see anything in the PDFs with the distribution..

Looks like a great design.. I've purchased and want some electronics that sit between the low & high end. Wonder if you mind giving me a quick opinion of suitability of: (can't include pics here)..
- 25kg DSServo (DS3218 or equiv)
- 16BL30 ESC sensorless 30A
- C3530 brushless motor 1400kv (sur)
- Battery 2cell LiPo 5200mah 50C

Not looking for competition racing.. just something to blast around my driveway/yard.. (no jumps planned.. but if I do.. less than 12 in.. at least that is the plan :)..

Also saw your MKUltra design and it is more mature.. but this looks a tad simpler.. might do the Ultra after.. any thoughts on Badger vs Ultra for construction? (relatively new at RC car builds.. have done one 3DSets Sandy) .. this is my current retirement hobby..

Am just getting sources for all the parts.. plan to print the diff in a PolyCarbonate filament.. I got a sample kit from Polymaker and they include 2x50g spools of PC and PCMax which should be good for the gears and not require steel.
Thx.. - Dave

Hi there, I finally did my first run! Worked perfectly for a while until Steeldiff02-Geared.STL broke. This part is pretty thin at the area where the screws are placed. Do you recommend to glue that part to the diff? What kind of glue did you use?

The second spot that broke is the bottom of the gearbox housing as this is maybe one or two layers and very thin. Will add some tape there to avoid dust to get into the housing.

Many thanks and congrats for the really great construction and all your help during built time. It's a great experience and fun to build and drive this thing. FWD Buggy is absolutely great stuff!

Hi there,

received the Losi spur gear yesterday, unfortunately the octagonal shaped Spuradapter01 to link it to the layshaft does not have the right dimension. The octagon of the Losi Spur gear has a about 33,5mm between two parallel lines. Maybe I can remix it a little to make it fit. How did you mount it? Just the octagon adapter and a center screw? or are there any other parts that need to be used?

The second issue I have experienced, is that the FS Racing diff and the CVD drive shafts are a tight fit. I can put them together but it can't move as the inner diamter of the FS Racing diff is the same diameter as the ball of the dogbone, both are about 5,9mm in size,

Maybe I will drill out the FS Racing diff to 6mm and hope it will work.

Hi, I'm almost ready to run, will get the spur gear and some screws tomorrow and then I should be good to finalize. One question I could not answer myself is, how the body is fixed. Front is clear but on the rear I cannot find any hint in the pdfs or videos. Just see two holes but no counterpart to grab the holes. Maybe you can give me a hint where to look or post an additional pic to be able to figure out how it is supposed to work. Many thanks!

Which version is the one to go for for if I want to achieve a long lasting gearbox?
I personally don't like balldiffs as these need a lot of maintenance, so I would head for the steel diff.
Good or bad idea?

Is geared or belt drive more dureable?
What ist the advantage of the double idler gears?

many thanks!
best regards,
David

Hi, do you have any assembly video and non-printable materials list that are needed to assemble this?

Finally, fully built it, ran it, it's running really good. Have two questions though. Braking seems strange, like it's a bit weak. Esc and remote set right. Using the belt drive, 39 tooth pinion and 80 tooth spur and 3d printed diff and 20 turn brushed motor. Never drove a fwd, is that the way it should be? I also printed the double drive and bought the FS racing diff but haven't had time to swapped it over yet. Next question is, what is the largest spur that will fit the gear cover, if I want to run a small pinion?

Can parts be printed with a 140x140x140 build volume? Thanks

I am having issues slicing Link01 and Hexrear01 in Prusa Slicer.

link01 has 40 issues that Prusa Slicer corrects. However when in layer view, the two flat head ball ends have issues. Prusa Slicer some how shifts/shrinks down a few middle layers closing the hole for the screw and then the rest of the layers fail to print. Prusa's repair tool, seems to fix the issue. Cura seems to slice it fine. Have yet to try printing it, tough.

Hexrear01 fails to print the last few layers Prusa Slicer gives a empty layer warning when slicing. Cura slices the last few layers but shows holes in layer view and the last few layers print out badly. Prusa repair couldn't fix the issue.

It ok, I found a solution, thanks

@Tinyverserc I can make thicker walls. If I make it one piece it probably needs to print. The smaller piece is needed to clear the pinion without crashing with the shock.

Hi, would be great if you can make a thicker wall and one-piece gear cover