Electric Guitar Jackson Dinky Ignis

If you want help, advice or even just a general chat about 3D printed guitars, feel to stop by the Discord channel and check out what I'm up to and what other are doing with their printed guitars as well! https://discord.gg/wznhkDrwMc

Based around the Dinky model, the body on this guitar has been shrunk even further and is amazingly comfortable to play.

This is an updated version of my previous Dinky with some quality of life improvements. The previous model had a 24 fret neck that was quite difficult to get a hold of it seems. This one doesn't have that issue. I've found a reliable source for the neck but worst case scenario, a Telecaster neck is also a perfect fit.

Anyway, on with the show... Here's your BOM.

Neck: You have a few options. Please note, the neck pocket is designed 56.0mm to 56.9mm width necks.

The Ignis was designed with a neck pocket to match a Telecaster. That means that any neck that is 25.5" Scale 21 or 22 frets and designed for a Telecaster or a Stratocaster will suit. (I will be adding some other variants at a later date.) Hell, if you're sick and tired of your Prusacaster and looking for something more... That neck will fit this guitar. But, if you want a true a Dinky style look, you'll need this neck

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/387248910922 if this item is out of stock, the seller has confirmed with me that it will be automatically relisted but will have a different address, just do a search within there store. Make sure it's 22 fret and has the white nut already on it and is not a neck designed for use with a Floyd Rose. If you have any questions, jump in the Discord!

As mentioned, it was initially designed for a Telecaster neck. You can also get them with a blank headstock to shape however you want.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/305764982915

Pickups: Humbuckers... and you want two of them. Go cheap or go expensive. It's up to you. The pair in mine are made by a local pickup winder. However, if you want a cheap set... These'll drop the panties! https://www.amazon.com/FLEOR-Alnico-Guitar-Humbucker-Pickups/dp/B0B74NPBN2

Pickup Mounting Rings: You can go flat or angled. Just make sure the angled ones are flat on the bottom and not curved for a Les Paul.
Angled https://www.amazon.com/Lovermusic-Arc-shaped-Electric-Humbucker-Mounting/dp/B07CK7SSH5
Flat https://www.amazon.com/Dopro-Humbucker-Pickup-Mounting-Bottom/dp/B07FSFW1TN
Metal https://www.amazon.com/Flat-Metal-Humbucker-Pickup-Mounting/dp/B08CZWTB9R

Bridge:Tune-O-Matic baby!!!! https://www.amazon.com/Guyker-Guitar-Saddle-Bridge-Matic/dp/B09S6TMJTF

Ferrules: Only this shape will fit. You can find many ferrules but they must look exactly like these ferrules. If they do not look the same... These are not the ferrules you are looking for.

BTW, you need a total of 12.

https://www.amazon.com/JJHXSM-String-Thru-Ferrules-Bushings-Electric/dp/B0B4RM593Q

Electronics: Here's a complete wiring harness ready to drop in and go! Ideally, you want one with a really long extension on the toggle switch as it's mounted on the top horn of the guitar.
https://www.amazon.com/Yootones-Electric-Harness-Prewired-Compatible/dp/B0CHFW3Q36

Output Jack: My tried and trusted Tele countersunk output jack. Nearly all of my models use this same jack.
https://www.amazon.com/Electrosocket-Jack-Plate-Telecasters%C2%AE-Polished/dp/B00U531UY2

Tuners: Take your pick. Plenty to choose from. If you're using a neck with all 6 tuners in a line... https://www.amazon.com/Eddaray-Inline-Vintage-Guitar-Machine/dp/B0CVW3WCB4

Strap Buttons: These will work just fine! https://www.amazon.com/Banworks-Buttons-Mounting-Acoustic-Electric/dp/B0D7Z86HTV

Shielding: Shield the body ok? Just do it. You don't want to be rockin'/chuggin'/djentin' out and hear the local AM radio station playing through your gear. Once you've done this one... Go put it into the Prusacaster you built and barely played.
https://www.amazon.com/Vaincre-Conductive-Adhesive-Flashing-Shielding/dp/B0C1442K27

Glue: Sci-Grip WeldOn 16. This is the only glue I'll use now. It's absolutely amazing as it doesn't just glue stuff together, it chemically welds them. Plus, if you close all the windows and doors... you'll be trippin' balls! :D

Follow the directions on the glue and don't forget to clamp your parts together.

The settings I list here are non-negotiable. You must at least use these settings for it to be as stable as a rock with tuning. I use THESE settings. You can add more if you feel like it, but do not add less.

The body file can be separated into two types of parts. High Strength and Low Strength. High Strength is any part in between the neck pocket and the bridge. If you're unsure, jump over to the Discord and you'll get some advice very quickly. Low strength parts are all of the other parts of the body file. Mostly, they're the ones around the outside of the body.

Additionally, the best print orientation is to flip everything upside down and use s from the bed only. Trust me, you don't want to forget to remove a piece of from inside the wiring routing AFTER you've assembled the guitar. I've done this more times than I'd like to it.

High Strength Parts should be printed with 25% gyroid infill and 2.4mm thick walls, top and bottom.

Low Strength Parts can be printed with 15% gyroid infill and 1.8mm thick walls, top and bottom.

*Veneer Parts are printed with 100% infill. You'll ideally want at least at least 3 bottom layers for the colour change to truly stand out. The veneers are actually a VERY critical part of the strength to these guitars.

Filament Choice You can use whatever you like. But, please don't use TPU or PETG. The first one goes without saying but the PETG feels like a logical choice for many people. But it isn't. It has far too much flex. I typically use ABS, PLA-CF or PLA. You can use any of these three... Hell, you can even use ASA if you like. I just choose not too for no other reason than... I dunno. I just don't! But you can!

PLA-CF is the stiffest but also the most expensive.
PLA is also extremely stiff and works great for these models. The only issue being is they can be a little bit like snowflake unicorn sparkle farts AKA sensitive. Especially when it comes to heat. However, MANY of my guitars are made from PLA.
ABS is fantastic. It's cheap, it's strong and it's far lighter than the other two, almost as light as wood. It's typically my material of choice however I struggle to find the colours I want. Plus! It's super easy to print! Ok... that was a bold faced lie. I have no issues printing ABS and consequently use it a lot. If you struggle with it, just use PLA-CF.

Assembly
In the pictures, you will see a picture of the main body with handscrawled numbers on them. Follow this order to get those parts glue into place. It's the fastest and the easiest.

If you have any questions at all. Scroll to the top and find that Discord link, I'm very active and so are a lot of other s who have nearly all built one, two or nine of my models are they all really helpful with lots of advice to share, memes to laugh at and inspiration with colour and hardware choices. Hell, even if you don't buy any of my models... head on over there anyway! You're all still welcome!

For my final note, if you happen to have purchased my original purple Dinky with white binding files and want to print this model now, please reach out as I'm happy to offer you a discount code that will reduce this model by the amount you paid for the first files.