AveragePedalboard - DIY USB MIDI controller

Here's my take on a DIY solution for musicians looking for a pedalboard to control various plugins.

Check out this demo

I'm a guitarist and I needed a pedalboard to control my amp sims both in live scenarios and in my own room and I'm also a tinkerer of sorts so I put together this system.
The whole thing revolves around a microcontroller of your choice, and can be expanded/modified to fit your specific needs, I included a bunch of variants based on my own.

You should think of this as a project box to develop your own platform, and since I'm absolutely not a developer/coder I'm only going to include a basic arduino sketch that emulates a midi controller as an example.

You can find the sample sketch here

You can ignore the ethernet mount versions, but I'll include them anyways, I'm using them because I have a side project where I'm connecting multiple pedalboards through ethernet.

Assembly is pretty easy, holes are designed to be slightly smaller than M3, so screws/bolts will just cut their own threads. I used an assortment of M3 bolts between 5 and 15mm, it's hard to go wrong.
You'll also need a couple of M2 screws, to mount the tactile switch on the left.

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Body variations included:

• Full stock body, arduino pro micro mount
• Full stock body, arduino pro micro mount (USB C)
• Full stock body, raspberry pi pico mount
• With/without ethernet port mount of each variation
• Split body,I included a version (without ethernet) pre cut and with a patch to keep the integrity, to fit smaller printbeds

Top lid variations included:

• LCD mount
• LCD, Potentiometer mounts
• LCD, Potentiometer, encoder mounts
• LCD, Potentiometer, encoder, buttons mounts
• LCD, Potentiometer, encoder, buttons, inside LEDS mounts

Switch lid variations included:

• Stock plate, here you're supposed to source a 3mm thick aluminium bar measuring 258x50

• Fully printed plate, combined plate if you don't want to source the aluminium bar ( this is what the slotted bottom and center s are for )

Bottom lid variations included:

• Stock lid
• Stock lid, meshed to save material
• Slotted lid, to fit the center
• Slotted lid, meshed to save material

Center also included, once printed you can just use a dab of glue to keep it in place for ease of assembly.

STEP files for IO plate and top lid to allow you to quickly customize IO and controls

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NOTES:

• I included the pre cut body to try and help those with a smaller print bed, but I'm not going to cut the lids, I'll see what I can do but mostly I'm leaving up to you what to do with those since they're pretty thin, you can always split them with any slicer.

• Depending on which microcontroller you choose, you might have a hard time fitting it in the dedicated slot, this is because many people use clones and many of those have some quirks that make them somewhat incompatible. For example, my pro micro clone has an offset USB C port (slightly to the left) so I had to make the slot a bit bigger to for those scenarios. If you can't fit it lengthwise, just clip off the back retainer and glue it to the base since you would have to glue it down anyways. Also, mid the s needed for the slot since they're pretty tiny, I've built 3 so far and I always managed to clean those with an exacto knife.

• As I said you're free to customize any aspect of the project, just as a note the audio jack you see in my case is beeing used as an expression pedal input

• If you're considering the ethernet version, I tried to for the thickness of the pins sticking under the board, but you might find that different manufacturers have different tolerances. As I already said regarding the microcontroller, if you have a slightly different board and the holes are not aligned you can just use the base to glue it down, it won't make any substantial difference

• I suggest you use the full body print (fits and ender 3 MAX, largest side is 275mm ) , and the aluminum plate version since those are the ones I designed originally, I just provided the other versions in case you can't print it correctly or you can't source the aluminum plate

0.2 layer height, many perimeters (I used 7 to be sure since it's going to be stomped on), infill doesn't really matter that much (I used 15%)