A-4 Skyhawk REMAKE by HOLOMODELS RC (NO INFILL OR TRAVEL)

PLEASE LIKE AND/OR RATE-IF YOU FEEL I DESERVE IT! It helps others find my work. Follow me for future UPDATES and CREATIONS of mine!

Comment and PICS and VIDEOS on RC-Groups HERE:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?4694245-3D-Printed-A-4-SKYHAWK-by-HOLOMODELS-RC

PILOT AND SEAT HERE:
https://cults3d.emulatorsite.com/en/creations/pilot-and-seat-for-rc-a-4-skyhawk-by-holomodels-rc

64MM Upgrade Files HERE:
https://cults3d.emulatorsite.com/:2720385

(PLAYLIST) Flight Videos of several different A-4 Versions:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYG-86eCo7zVFQrZ1TC0sOKFgBqieARtP

BUILD VIDEO (Including Electronics):
https://youtu.be/pkWDS_mcetE?si=34IlRDwFGZWZAmCA

"ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL" RE-MAKE of my 50mm A-4 SKYHAWK

--Designed to be printed WITHOUT RETRACTIONS OR TRAVEL MOVES(retractions OFF, hide seam on inside). This is HIGH QUALITY MODEL that DOES NOT USE INFILL!

FEATURES: (Check out my FULL BUILD VIDEO)

NO STRINGING OR CLEAN-UP REQUIRED
HINGED with PRINTER FILAMENT(1.75mm)
EDF’s screw in and are replaceable.
SPRING LOADED HATCH (using Rubber Band)
BALANCED using ONLY the Battery!!
EXTREMELY EASY to assemble!!
MINIMAL number of parts and print time.
GOOD SIZE (25in wingspan by 37in long)
G-Codes and Factory Files for Simplify3D V5
PrusaSlicer 3MF Profiles

OPTIONS:

CLEAR Canopy with PILOT and SEAT
AVIONICS HUMP
REMOVEABLE RE-FUELING PROBES (Bent & Straight)
G-Codes made with SIMPLIFY3D (200x200x200)
64mm (Oversized Elevator included)
PrusaSlicer 3MF Profiles

WATCH the FULL BUILD VIDEO to see how QUICK & EASY this beautiful jet goes together

SPECIFICATIONS:

Wing Span: 25in
Length: 37in
CG Threshhold: 3-7.5cm back from seam of FUSE2-3
CG: 3-4cm=Nose Heavy
CG: 4-6cm for Maiden
CG: 6-7.5cm For Tail Heavy
CG: DO NOT RECOMMEND further back than 7.5CM

Weight: SEE Detailed chart for ALL weights.

SERVO SETUP:

Elevator: Center Hole.
If Using Flaperons: Center Hole.
If Using Ailerons ONLY: Second from arm inner, or center.
I prefer Flaperon Set-Up (SEE RADIO PICTURE ABOVE)

RATES:

-HIGH 80% Aileron travel and 30% Expo (8mm travel)
-MID 65% Aileron travel and 30% Expo (6.5mm)
-LOW 50% Aileron travel and 30% Expo (5mm)

REQUIRES:

-300 to 400g of Active Foaming LW-PLA (depending on brand)
-3 x 9g Servos and extensions (All metal gear recommended)
-50mm EDF and ESC (Any Brand)
-XT-60 extension(4-12in 14AWG) for easier battery removal and balancing (included in AUW’s)
-Battery 1400-2200mah, 3-4S depending on your motor. There is room for a larger than 2200 battery!
-Music wire or pushrod wire
https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Brand-039-21045-Diameter-Tempered/dp/B01M0FOHED?pd_rd_w=xeLQo&content-id=amzn1.sym.55f2405b-2aa3-4fa1-95e2-48a0da8f4e9a&pf_rd_p=55f2405b-2aa3-4fa1-95e2-48a0da8f4e9a&pf_rd_r=ZBQEJW1C97Q9TD5BVKRX&pd_rd_wg=ckuZZ&pd_rd_r=03320330-3c1f-403f-b7a4-faff558aabed&pd_rd_i=B01M0FOHED&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_ppx_yo_dt_b_search_bia_i
-Velcro for battery
-6x Screws for EDF, 2-3mm diameter and 10-16mm long
-300 to 400 grams of Active Foaming LW-PLA for airframe.
-Either Pre-Foamed, PLA+, or PLA for solid control horns and hatch lock pieces (ONE STL option). (ColorFabb & Pre-Foamed LW-PLA for solid parts RECOMMENDED)
-Rubber Band
-Medium CA or "Super Glue"

OPTIONAL:

-5pcs: 24in or 30in Steel Yard Marking Flags or equivalent (Walmart, Lowes, Amazon, Hardware Store, or neighbors yard).
https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-FOG30100-2-Inch-Marking-30-Inch/dp/B0081ZROR8/ref=rvi_d_sccl_2/137-5972529-5996720?pd_rd_w=DZ9wc&content-id=amzn1.sym.f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_p=f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_r=DTX1XQ29NXRNNQZ7MWK2&pd_rd_wg=MrVzV&pd_rd_r=be1c10bd-4a2a-49a1-ad56-914cb469ae57&pd_rd_i=B0081ZROR8&th=1
-1.5mm Carbon Fiber Rods
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083LL2Y9D?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
-Polymaker Polysmooth PVB for CLEAR Canopy
- Pilot and Seat Files Separately FREE!
-Flying Experience

This model is a hand launched Yank & Bank EDF (Rudder is too high up on the A-4 to even bother). 

Both the 50mm and 64mm EDF's screw in and are replaceable if something fails. There is PLENTY of room for a 60A ESC which is under the EDF ducting, bringing the majority of the weight lower on the model for better flight stability. There is plenty of room for a LEMON 7CH Stability PLUS Receiver!

The hatch utilizes almost the same mechanism as my Sportster, a spring-loaded latch using a rubber band. 

The model can be balanced either nose or tail heavy very easily with just the battery, and a 4S-2200 fits with much room to spare. I have balanced it with as small as a 1400 battery(Still more room to move FWD). I will add balance marks in the future. Battery is held in with Velcro. AUW will be different depending on what brand of Active Foaming LW-PLA you use, and which set of G-Codes (.40 or .48 wall widths). 

I used 1.5mm steel yard flags in the LE of the wing, and one that spans from wing-tip to wint-tip. I also used three of them to help align and hold Fuse#1-Fuse#6 together. They surround the battery compartment to prevent it from breaking with a hard landing. This greatly increases model longevity and distributes the weight of the battery. I have had excellent results using these inexpensive wires in my models, and they can be SUBSTITUTED with 1.5mm CARBON FIBER RODS if you want to cut some weight, or just not used at all(SEEN IN BUILD VIDEO). All metal wires including the probe cut to length and weighed are 45g (SEE CHART).

I have included REMOVEABLE re-fueling probes that have a metal wire all the way through it for strength. I have included options for either a straight or bent refueling probe. I have also made the avionics "hump" print separately. So, the A-4 can be printed and flown with or without the "hump", cockpit, and refueling probes.

The Stabs print separately, and there is absolutely no tail "WOBBLE". I put  lines in around the canopy, flaps, and air-break doors. I also added a tail hook to the bottom that prints with the fuselage. 

I included files for an optional battery hatch that prints with a clear canopy and cockpit using Polymakers Polysmooth PVB. For those who are unaware of this material, it prints clear and turns transparent after spraying 99% alcohol on it. I made the cockpit the hatch, so it's interchangeable and only has to be built and painted once.

If you are able, TRY MY G-CODES FIRST!! I have printed these parts many times during and after deg. I have wasted several rolls of PLA and spent a lot of time finding the best settings, so you don't have to. I also use Simplify3D which is capable of doing things other slicers can not. I take much pride in my work, and everything has to be as perfect as possible!

Chart Weights for G-Codes may vary slightly from printer to printer. Also, I have cut some weight on many parts but have not updated the chart

I have built and flown a couple of the different versions possible. Check out my flight and build videos above! I will be ing more flight videos to my YouTube  (Holomodels-RC) in the very near future. Subscribe to my YouTube channel to stay informed when I post them.  

      The First 10 people who post a COMPLETED MAKE WITH AN HONEST REVIEW AND RATING on THIS A-4 page will get my next model for half price or less(must be on the New A-4 Remake page, complete, and honest). 

**G-Codes should be inserted directly into your printer on a USB stick, SD Card, Micro SD, or USB-C conversion with some type of memory stick. Some slicing software will not read or send the G-Codes to your printer correctly. Slicing software should be byed by inserting the files into your printer and printing from there whenever possible. CULTS3D is a website to buy, sell, and ".STL" files. The G-Codes I make are a bonus, so s don't have to waste their own time and money trying to find the best print settings. **

      I have spent well over 600hrs on this model and am extremely happy with the results. I am very excited to share it with the world!

       Thank you all for your  and thank you to everyone who posted a make of one of my creations! It makes me feel good to see others enjoying my aircraft! Special thanks to everyone who kept me in the loop during their maidens.  I have really enjoyed making this model and helping everyone who purchased one of my models.

      PLEASE LIKE and/or RATE if you feel I deserve it. It helps others find my work and makes me feel good! 

       FOLLOW ME for future updates and new creations of mine.

Prusa Slicer 3MF Profiles NOW INCLUDED with

PRINT SETTINGS: SEE THE CHARTS ABOVE FOR PART WEIGHTS AND SLICER SETTINGS. Also comes with .

-.40 or .48 wall width (G-Codes for both provided)
-.18 to .35 layer height depending on complexity. (See Chart)
-2 initial bottoms, and 3 uppermost tops
-Vase or regular mode, however best you can minimize travel moves and get solid tops and bottoms. Try moving the Z-Seam to the inside.

PLEASE READ DETAILED PRINT INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED WITH ZIP FILE if using my G-Codes, or slicing yourself. I have also included my personal recommendations and why I have two separate sets for each brand.

I have included TWO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT sets of G-Codes for each E-Sun, SainSmart, and ColorFabb  ACTIVE FOAMING LW-PLA. One set has a wall width of (.40), and the other set has a wall width of (.48). I did this because the different brands of PLA have very different weights and characteristics. It is up to you to decide how you want to build it and which PLA you want to use. Each brand prints with completely different settings, so chances are if you're using something else like PLA-Aero one of the G-Codes I supplied will work(Sainsmart I believe to substitute for PLA AERO).
Everything prints on a bed size of 200x200x200! FUSE-6 has been split as optional files for those of you with a bed size under 220x220x200. Most Parts print with 3 solid tops and 2 solid bottoms for easy construction. The fuselage is 6 main pieces that print relatively fast considering the size of them since there are no travel moves, retractions, or infill. 

The Airframe prints beautifully with supplied G-Codes version 2.0 or later. I still intend on making Cura Profiles, but Cura profiles will not print this plane as nice as my G-Codes. I will try my best to answer all questions in a timely manner as I have been doing with all my models and assisting people to the best of my ability. I am not a master of every slicing software on the market, nor every brand printer, but if there is an issue with my model, I will do my best to fix it or find a solution.

FOLLOW ME to be notified of any updates I make to this model.