3D model description
Design is to be printed out in separate parts in the corresponding colors to eliminate the need to paint. This also allows everyone to be able to print this design regardless of what printer you are using.
It’s been a while since I created another character in the chill series, and I thought this would make an excellent addition to the bunch. I absolutely love this character found in multiple games, and was pleased how the project came together.
I enjoyed experimenting with various color combinations in my test prints of the smaller versions and look forward to seeing what you come up with.
The smaller version stands about 6.5 inches or 165mm tall. Much shorter than the other chill characters and fits in perfectly with the bunch. I was able to eliminate the need to print out the white eye centers in this scale of the design by creating a hole in the black eye pieces where a scrap of white filament can be pressed in and snipped off. I do not recommend scaling this design down any further than this original scale, as some of the smaller green tri-hex pieces will not print correctly.
The 220 version of this design stands approximately 14.25 inches (362mm) tall when fully assembled. I was looking to add some design elements to the front of this character’s hoodie, similar to what you would find on the bib he wears in the video games, and came up with this spikey teeth logo to be added to the front if you so desire. I am also including a blank hoodie at this scale if you wish to paint your own design in the slicer software.
Printing…
It should be pretty simple; most of the parts I printed without the need for . The exception is the hood. I was able to get successful test prints of the smaller version of the hood without adding s. In the 220 version, I made sure to add to this piece.
If you have a Bambu P1 or X1 I highly recommend using the 3MF files included in the without changing anything. If the filament you are using is similar to the filaments listed below, you will achieve just as good of results in your print as shown in the photos. These are the same files I used to print this design and take the pictures seen.
Assembly…
Dry fit everything in place before adding glue.
I highly recommend PLA Gloop, if you can obtain it.
PLA Gloop Website
Starbond Adhesives makes a good CA or super glue alternative at a lower price point. I recommend the Medium or Thick formula. I would definitely pick up some Accelerator if you're planning on using the Thick formula.
As I have been including assembly pictures in the files, I hope this makes the process easier for you. Please check them out if you have questions.
The small white eye centers I put together by pressing a piece of scrap white filament into the black eye piece, then snipping it off. I did include the STL in the files if you so wish to scale this design up; I do not recommend scaling the design down.
Be sure to add the Black shell hub to one side of the tan shell trim, then attach the opposite tan trim piece to the hub to lock it in place.
I found it quite easy to add the yellow spikes to the orange rings, then add them to the green hex pieces before attaching them to the black hub and tan trim assembly.
The hardest part of assembly would be determining where the small green triangles should be placed on the shell. I did mark the larger hex pieces, but the triangles I found were not big enough to mark and print successfully. I am including pictures of the pieces printed in a larger scale to make it easier to see the intended shape of the pieces and their location on the shell, indicating where they should go.
Suggested Filaments
Bambu Matte Black
Bambu Matte White
Bambu Matte Scarlet Red
Bambu Matte Desert Tan
Sunlu Matte Green PLA
Ziro Matte Gray PLA
Ziro Matte Orange PLA
Numakers Matte Golden Dawn – Yellow
Polymakers Electric Indigo - Purple
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